The physiology of rock climbing.

In general, elite climbers have been characterised as small in stature, with low percentage body fat and body mass. Currently, there are mixed conclusions surrounding body mass and composition, potentially because of variable subject ability, method of assessment and calculation. Muscular strength and endurance in rock climbers have been primarily measured on the forearm, hand and fingers via dynamometry. When absolute hand strength was assessed, there was little difference between climbers and the general population. When expressed in relation to body mass, elite-level climbers scored significantly higher, highlighting the potential importance of low body mass. Rock climbing is characterised by repeated bouts of isometric contractions. Hand grip endurance has been measured by both repeated isometric contractions and sustained contractions, at a percentage of maximum voluntary contraction. Exercise times to fatigue during repeated isometric contractions have been found to be significantly better in climbers when compared with sedentary individuals. However, during sustained contractions until exhaustion, climbers did not differ from the normal population, emphasising the importance of the ability to perform repeated isometric forearm contractions without fatigue becoming detrimental to performance. A decrease in handgrip strength and endurance has been related to an increase in blood lactate, with lactate levels increasing with the angle of climbing. Active recovery has been shown to provide a better rate of recovery and allows the body to return to its pre-exercised state quicker. It could be suggested that an increased ability to tolerate and remove lactic acid during climbing may be beneficial. Because of increased demand placed upon the upper body during climbing of increased difficulty, possessing greater strength and endurance in the arms and shoulders could be advantageous. Flexibility has not been identified as a necessary determinant of climbing success, although climbing-specific flexibility could be valuable to climbing performance. As the difficulty of climbing increases, so does oxygen uptake (VO(2)), energy expenditure and heart rate per metre of climb, with a disproportionate rise in heart rate compared with VO(2). It was suggested that these may be due to a metaboreflex causing a sympathetically mediated pressor response. In addition, climbers had an attenuated blood pressure response to isometric handgrip exercises when compared with non-climbers, potentially because of reduced metabolite build-up causing less stimulation of the muscle metaboreflex. Training has been emphasised as an important component in climbing success, although there is little literature reviewing the influence of specific training components upon climbing performance. In summary, it appears that success in climbing is not related to individual physiological variables but is the result of a complex interaction of physiological and psychological factors.

Relationship between laboratory-measured variables and heart rate during an ultra-endurance triathlon.

The aim of the present study was to examine the relationship between the performance heart rate during an ultra-endurance triathlon and the heart rate corresponding to several demarcation points measured during laboratory-based progressive cycle ergometry and treadmill running. Less than one month before an ultra-endurance triathlon, 21 well-trained ultra-endurance triathletes (mean +/- s: age 35 +/- 6 years, height 1.77 +/- 0.05 m, mass 74.0 +/- 6.9 kg, = 4.75 +/- 0.42 l x min(-1)) performed progressive exercise tests of cycle ergometry and treadmill running for the determination of peak oxygen uptake (VO2peak), heart rate corresponding to the first and second ventilatory thresholds, as well as the heart rate deflection point. Portable telemetry units recorded heart rate at 60 s increments throughout the ultra-endurance triathlon. Heart rate during the cycle and run phases of the ultra-endurance triathlon (148 +/- 9 and 143 +/- 13 beats x min(-1) respectively) were significantly (P < 0.05) less than the second ventilatory thresholds (160 +/- 13 and 165 +/- 14 beats x min(-1) respectively) and heart rate deflection points (170 +/- 13 and 179 +/- 9 beats x min(-1) respectively). However, mean heart rate during the cycle and run phases of the ultra-endurance triathlon were significantly related to (r = 0.76 and 0.66; P < 0.01), and not significantly different from, the first ventilatory thresholds (146 +/- 12 and 148 +/- 15 beats x min(-1) respectively). Furthermore, the difference between heart rate during the cycle phase of the ultra-endurance triathlon and heart rate at the first ventilatory threshold was related to marathon run time (r = 0.61; P < 0.01) and overall ultra-endurance triathlon time (r = 0.45; P < 0.05). The results suggest that triathletes perform the cycle and run phases of the ultra-endurance triathlon at an exercise intensity near their first ventilatory threshold.

A comparison of inspiratory muscle fatigue following maximal exercise in moderately trained males and females.

Exercise-induced inspiratory muscle fatigue (IMF) has been reported in males but there are few reports of IMF in females. It is not known if a gender difference exists for inspiratory muscle strength following heavy exercise, as is reported in locomotor muscles. Therefore, the relationship between fatigue and subsequent recovery of maximal inspiratory pressure (MIP) following exercise to maximal oxygen consumption (VO2max) was examined in a group of moderately trained males and females. Eighteen males (23+/-3 years; mean +/- SD) and 16 females (23+/-2 years) completed ten MIP and ten maximal handgrip (HG) strength maneuvers to establish baseline. Post-exercise MIP and HG were assessed successively immediately following a progressive intensity VO2max test on a cycle ergometer and at 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 10, and 15 min. VO2max, relative to fat-free mass was not statistically different between males (62+/-7 ml kg(-1) min(-1)) and females (60+/-8 ml kg(-1) min(-1)). Males had higher absolute MIP values than females at all time intervals (P<0.05). Immediately following exercise, MIP was significantly reduced in both genders (M=83+/-16%; F=78+/-15% of baseline) but HG values were not different than resting values. MIP values remained depressed for both males and females throughout the 15 min (P<0.05). Differences for MIP between males and females were not statistically significant at any measurement time (P>0.05). The findings in this study conclude that IMF, observed immediately following maximal exercise, demonstrated the same pattern of recovery for both genders.

Exercise-induced arterial hypoxemia is not different during cycling and running in triathletes.

This study examined the effect of running and cycling on exercise-induced arterial hypoxemia (EIAH) in individuals well trained in each modality. Thirteen male triathletes (X+/-SD: age=36+/-5 years, mass=69+/-8 kg, body fat=12+/-1%) performed progressive exercise to exhaustion during cycle ergometry and treadmill running. Gas exchange was determined, while oxyhemoglobin saturation (SaO(2)) was measured with an ear oximeter. At maximal exercise, the respiratory exchange ratio (1.15+/-0.06 vs. 1.10+/-0.05) and the ventilatory equivalent for oxygen uptake (37.6+/-3.8 vs. 34.2+/-2.7) were greater during cycling vs. running (P<0.05). However, there were no differences at maximal exercise in oxygen uptake (64.4+/-3.2 vs. 67.0+/-4.6 mL kg(-1) min(-1)), SaO(2) (93.4+/-2.8% vs. 92.6+/-2.2%), or the ventilatory equivalent for carbon dioxide (V(E)/VCO(2); 33.1+/-3.1 vs. 31.0+/-3.1), during cycling vs. running, respectively. During submaximal exercise, the V(E)/VCO(2) was less for cycling (26.0+/-1.0) compared with running (29.1+/-0.4; P<0.05), but this had no apparent effect on the SaO(2) response. In conclusion, EIAH was not significantly different during cycling and running in athletes who were well trained in both exercise modalities.

Effects of intermittent exposure to hyperbaric oxygen for the treatment of an acute soft tissue injury.

OBJECTIVE: To assess the hypothesis that subjects exposed to intermittent hyperbaric oxygen treatments would recover from signs and symptoms indicative of delayed-onset muscle soreness faster than subjects exposed to normoxic air. DESIGN: Randomized, double-blinded study with a 4-day treatment protocol. SETTING: University-based sports medicine clinic. PARTICIPANTS: Sixteen sedentary female university students. INTERVENTIONS: All subjects performed 300 maximal voluntary eccentric contractions (30 sets of 10 repetitions per minute) of their nondominant leg (110 to 35 degrees of knee flexion) at a slow speed (30 degrees per second) on a dynamometer to elicit muscle damage and injury. Hyperbaric oxygen treatments consisted of 100% oxygen for 60 minutes at 2.0 atmospheres absolute (ATA), while the control group received 21% oxygen at 1.2 ATA for the same amount of time. Both groups received treatment immediately after the induction of delayed-onset muscle soreness and each day thereafter for a period of 4 days (day 1 postexercise through day 4 postexercise). MAIN OUTCOME MEASURES: Dependent variables (perceived muscle soreness, isokinetic strength, quadriceps circumference, creatine kinase, and malondialdehyde) were assessed at baseline (preexercise, day 0), 4 hours postexercise (day 1), 24 hours postexercise (day 2), 48 hours postexercise (day 3), and 72 hours postexercise (day 4). Magnetic resonance images (T2 relaxation time/short tip inversion recovery) were assessed at baseline (day 0), 24 hours postexercise (day 3), and 72 hours postexercise (day 5). RESULTS: Repeated-measures analysis of variance was performed on all of the dependent variables to assess differences between treatment and control groups. Analyses revealed no significant differences between groups for treatment effects for any of the dependent variables (pain, strength, quadriceps circumference, creatine kinase, malondialdehyde, or magnetic resonance images). CONCLUSIONS: The findings of this study suggest that hyperbaric oxygen therapy is not effective in the treatment of exercise-induced muscle injury as indicated by the markers evaluated.

The relationship of the heart rate deflection point to the ventilatory threshold in trained cyclists.

The purpose of this study was to assess the relationship of the heart rate deflection point (HRDP) to the ventilatory threshold (VT) in trained cyclists. Twenty-one endurance-trained cyclists (mean +/- SD: Vo(2)max = 67.6 +/- 4.7 ml x kg x min(-1)) completed a maximal cycle ergometer test of volitional fatigue using a ramped protocol. Ventilatory variables (Ve, Vo(2), Vco(2)) and power were measured online with averages reported every 20 seconds. Heart rate (HR) was recorded every 20 seconds using a Polar monitor. VT was calculated using the excess CO(2) elimination curve. The first derivative of a logistic growth curve fit to the HR-power data produced the HRDP. No significant differences (p > 0.01) existed between HR values at HRDP (171.7 +/- 9.6 b x min(-1)) and VT (169.8 +/- 9.9 b x min(-1)) or between Vo(2) values at HRDP (53.6 +/- 4.2 ml x kg x min(-1)) and VT (52.2 +/- 4.8 ml x kg x min(-1)). But power values at HRDP (318.7 +/- 30.7 W) were significantly different (p < 0.01) from those at VT (334.8 +/- 36.7 W). There were significant relationships between HRDP and VT for the physiological variables of HR (r = 0.92, p < 0.001), Vo(2) (r = 0.72, p < 0.001), and power (r = 0.77, p < 0.001). These findings indicate that HR and Vo(2) at HRDP are not significantly different from the values at VT in trained cyclists. HR values derived from HRDP may be used to set parameters for training intensity. Variability in the speed/power-HRDP relationship across detrained/trained states may be used to evaluate training programs.

The effect of pre-exercise glucose ingestion on performance during prolonged swimming.

The purpose of this study was to determine if pre-exercise glucose ingestion would improve distance swimming performance. Additionally, pre-exercise glucose was provided at 2 different feeding intervals to investigate the affects of the timing of administration. Ten male triathletes (mean +/- SD: age, 29.5 +/- 5.0 years; VO2peak, 48.8 +/- 3.2 ml.kg-1.min-1) swam 4000 m on 3 occasions following the consumption of either a 10% glucose solution 5 min prior to exercise (G5), a 10% glucose solution 35 min prior to exercise (G35), or a similar volume of placebo (PL). Despite a significant difference (p < .01) in blood glucose concentration prior to exercise (mean +/- SD in mmol.L-1: G35 8.4 +/- 1.1 vs. G5 5.2 +/- 0.5 or PL 5.3 +/- 0.4), no significant differences were observed in total time (mean +/- SD in minutes: G35 70.7 +/- 7.6, G5 70.1 +/- 7.6, PL 71.9 +/- 8.4), post-exercise blood glucose (mean +/- SD in mmol.L-1: G35 5.1 +/- 1.1, G5 5.1 +/- 0.9, PL 5.3 +/- 0.4), and average heart rate (mean +/- SD in bpm: G35 155.8 +/- 10.8, G5 153.6 +/- 12.6, PL 152.0 +/- 12.5; p > .05). While not reaching statistical significance, glucose feedings did result in improved individual performance times, ranging from 24 s to 5 min in 8 of the 10 subjects compared to the placebo. These results were found despite significant differences in blood glucose between trials immediately prior to exercise.

Relationship of exercise test variables to cycling performance in an Ironman triathlon.

The purpose of this study was, firstly, to investigate the intensity of exercise performance of highly trained ultra-endurance triathletes during the cycling portion of an Ironman triathlon, and, secondly, to examine the anaerobic threshold and its relationship to this performance. Following a peak oxygen consumption (VO(2peak)) test on a cycle ergometer to determine the heart rate (HR(Th,vent)) and power output (PO(Th,vent)) at the ventilatory threshold (Th(vent)), 11 highly trained male triathletes [mean (SEM) age 35.8 (1.6) years, body fat 11.7 (1.2)%. VO(2peak) 67.5 (1.0) ml x kg(-1) x min(-1)] who were participating in an Ironman triathlon, in random order: (1) cycled at their PO(Th,vent) (Bi(Th,vent)) until they were exhausted, and (2) cycled for 5 h at a self-selected intensity (Bi(SSI)). Cycling power output (PO), oxygen uptake (VO(2)), heart rate (HR) and blood lactate concentration ([La(-)](b)) were recorded at regular intervals during these trials, while performance HR was recorded during the cycling phase of the Ironman triathlon. Significantly greater (P < 0.05) values were attained during Bi(Th,vent) than during Bi(SSI) for PO [274 (9) compared to 188 (9) W], VO(2) [3.61 (0.15) compared to 2.64 (0.09) l x min(-1)], and [La(-)](b) [6.7 (0.8) compared to 2.8 (0.4) mmol x l(-1)]. Moreover, mean HR during the Ironman triathlon cycle phase [146.3 (2.4) beats.min(-1); n=7] was significantly greater than mean HR during Bi(SSI) [130 (4) beats x min(-1)], and significantly less than mean HR during Bi(Th,vent) [159 (3) beats x min(-1); all P < 0.05]. However, HR during the cycle portion of the Ironman triathlon was highly related to (r = 0.873; P < 0.05) and not significantly different to HR(Th,vent) [150 (4) beats x min(-1)]. These data suggest that ultra-endurance triathletes cycle during the Ironman triathlon at a HR intensity that approximates to HR(Th,vent), but at a PO that is significantly below PO(Th,vent).