Effect of exercise, body composition, and nutritional intake on bone parameters in male elite rock climbers.

A low body mass index is considered essential for high performance in rock climbing; however its effect on bone may be negative. In this study we compared the BMD of competitive male rock climbers (n = 20) and age- and BMI-matched non-training controls (n = 11). Subjects with any medication or illness affecting bone metabolism or a family history of osteoporosis were not included in the analysis. Total body BMD was measured by dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry. Quantitative computed tomographic scans were made from the femoral neck and the lumbar spine. Dietary intake was assessed by a 5-day protocol. BMD of the TB-scan was significantly higher in the climbers group for all sub-regions except the skull (p = 0.191) and the lower extremities (p = 0.079). Trabecular and cortical BMD of the LS were significantly higher (p = 0.036 and p = 0.004) in the climbers. The same was true for total (p = 0.005) and cortical (p = 0.002) BMD of the FN. Trabecular BMD (p = 0.054), CSA (p < 0.343) and cortical thickness (p = 0.065) of the FN was non-significantly higher for the climbers. Our study indicates that the effect of climbing on bone parameters PER SE is not detrimental in elite male athletes. Contrarily climbers demonstrated significantly higher BMD values at all loaded regions without "steal effects" at skeletal sites with low mechanical impact. Although we determined a moderately negative effect of low BMI on BMD we could not decide whether a low BMI value should be used as an exclusion criterion in high level climbing competitions as practized by the Austrian Sportclimbing Organization.

Development of a performance diagnosis of the anaerobic strength endurance of the forearm flexor muscles in sport climbing.

The anaerobic strength endurance of the forearm flexor muscles represents the main limiting factor in modern sports climbing. Only isometric testing has been performed so far in order to evaluate this factor. Since climbing involves intermittent isometric contraction as well as dynamic movements, a pure isometric testing is too unspecific. The present paper demonstrates a specific performance diagnosis using a rotating climbing wall as a climbing ergometer. Twenty-eight male climbers performed a step test. According to their climbing level they were divided into three groups with different inclinations of the wall. Maximum blood lactate was 5.0 +/- 1.3 mmol/l (mean +/- sd), climbing length 39.1 +/- 15.7 m, and heart rate 185 +/- 10.7 bpm. The mean number of steps performed was 5.8 +/- 2.5 and the mean slope of the blood lactate graph (regression equation) was 0.57 +/- 0.4. The specific climbing recovering ability is documented with the so called heart rate difference and additionally the positive effects of a non specific, aerobic, basic endurance training are demonstrated. A mathematical analysis of the most important performance limiting test results enabled us to determine a strength-endurance factor that can be applied for cross- and longitudinal-section comparisons.

[Pulley injuries in sport climbers]. / Verletzungen des Ringbandapparates bei Sportkletterern.

The closed traumatic rupture of finger flexor tendon pulleys in rock-climbers represents a new complex finger trauma first observed in the mid 1980s. While initially the diagnostic and therapeutic approaches varied, nowadays a standard proceeding is being applied. After clinical suspicion and eliminating the possibility of a fracture by normal radiographs, pulley strains as well as singular or multiple pulley ruptures can be diagnosed using ultrasound. If the ultrasound fails to give a definitive diagnosis, an MRI should be performed. In the case of a singular rupture, a conservative treatment with initial immobilisation and early functional therapy is indicated. In the case of a multiple pulley rupture, a surgical reconstruction is mandatory. We favour the "loop and a half" technique of Widstrom and colleagues 1989 and, alternatively, the Weilby repair 1978. Post-operative initial immobilisation and early functional treatment under external pulley protection should be performed.

Photosynthesis of Blueberry Leaves as Affected by Septoria Leaf Spot and Abiotic Leaf Damage.

Leaf spots caused by fungal pathogens or abiotic factors can be prevalent on southern blueberries after harvest during the summer and fall, yet little is known about how they affect physiological processes that determine yield potential for the following year. In this study, we measured CO2 assimilation and leaf conductance on field-grown blueberry plants affected by Septoria leaf spot (caused by Septoria albopunctata) or by edema-like abiotic leaf blotching. Net assimilation rate (NAR) on healthy leaves varied between 6.9 and 12.4 µmol m-2 s-1 across cultivars and measurement dates. Infection by S. albopunctata had a significant negative effect on photosynthesis, with NAR decreasing exponentially as disease severity increased (R2 ≥0.726, P < 0.0001). NAR was reduced by approximately one-half at 20% disease severity, and values approached zero for leaves with >50% necrotic leaf area. There was a positive, linear correlation between NAR and leaf conductance (R2 ≥ 0.622, P < 0.0001), suggesting that the disease may have reduced photosynthesis via decreased CO2 diffusion into affected leaves. Estimates of virtual lesion size associated with infection by S. albopunctata ranged from 2.8 to 3.1, indicating that the leaf area in which photosynthesis was impaired was about three times as large as the area covered by necrosis. For leaves afflicted by edema-like damage, there also was a significant negative relationship between NAR and affected leaf area, but the scatter about the regression was more pronounced than in the NAR-disease severity relationships for S. albopunctata (R2 = 0.548, P < 0.0001). No significant correlation was observed between leaf conductance and affected area on these leaves (P = 0.145), and the virtual lesion size associated with abiotic damage was significantly smaller than that caused by S. albopunctata. Adequate carbohydrate supply during the fall is critical for optimal flower bud set in blueberry; therefore, these results document the potential for marked yield losses due to biotic and abiotic leaf spots.