Specific protection of sensitive skin against environmental stress by maintenance and improvement of barrier function.

BACKGROUND: Sensitive skin is a common condition that can severely impact quality of life. Several mechanisms are thought to be involved, including those affecting the skin barrier function, hydration and skin innervation. OBJECTIVES: To investigate the benefit of cream and balm formulations dedicated to sensitive skin and containing Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 (ADE-G3) on skin barrier functions (lipid composition, pH, TEWL), as well as protective responses to dry and pollution stresses. METHODS: In vitro sensitized (using histamine) reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) were subjected to dehydration and pollution stress in the absence and presence of the formulations. Endpoint measurements included transepithelial electric resistance (TEER), stratum corneum protein expression and lipid contents. Clinical measurements included transepithelial water loss (TEWL), skin pH and the lipid index. RESULTS: When applied in cream and balm formulations, ADE-G3, increased the TEER in sensitized RHEs. In non-sensitized dehydrated RHEs, both formulations increased recovery of skin barrier integrity after dehydration, evident as a return of the ratios of filaggrin/profilaggrin and caspase-14/procaspase-14 to values measured in control non-stressed RHEs, as well as reducing the 'natural moisturizing factor' to control levels. In clinical studies performed on dry human skin, the formulations helped to maintain and improve the skin barrier function. This was evident as an intense and sustained moisturization (total lipids and lipid esters were increased), an increase in pH and a decrease in the TEWL by both formulations. When exposed to pollution stress by treating the models with benzo[a]pyrene and airborne particulate matter (PM10), application of both formulations prior to exposure attenuated the induction of CYP1A1, CYP1B1 and UGT1A7 expression, indicating a protective effect. CONCLUSIONS: ADE-G3 cream and balm formulations increased the hydration of the skin but also protected and improved the skin barrier integrity of sensitive skin exposed to dry and cold and airborne pollutant-induced stress environments.

In vitro characterization and clinical evaluation of skin hydration by two formulations mimicking the skin's natural components.

BACKGROUND: We have developed innovative base formulations that were designed to mimic the skin with respect to its components and galenic structure. Components include water, proteins, lipids, sugars and minerals. OBJECTIVES: We characterized formulations and their skin penetration using in vitro methods and evaluated their impact on skin hydration in a clinical trial. METHODS: Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) imaging and X-ray diffraction were used to analyse formulations as well as formulation impact on the stratum corneum (SC) structure. Mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) was used to compare formulation ingredients with SC components and to detect their distribution in the skin. Clinical studies were performed to confirm effects on skin hydration and investigate potential adverse skin effects (irritation and sensitization). RESULTS: SEM and X-ray diffraction of the formulations showed that lipids were organized in sheets similar to SC lipids. MSI demonstrated similarities between formulation components and skin constituents, as well as a good penetration into the skin. The formulations did not modify the lamellar organization of the SC lipids, but they increased the relative proportion of the crystallized lipids and some of the amorphous lipids. In in vivo studies, a high level of hydration was maintained over 24 h after application with an intense and 'very good hydration'. Both formulations were shown to be non-(photo)sensitizers with excellent tolerance. Sensorial evaluation indicated the formulations were not oily or sticky and maintained the skin's suppleness over time. Formulations had a 'nude skin' touch and created a natural protective film. CONCLUSIONS: The two formulations were well-tolerated and increased skin hydration in clinical subjects, an effect that could contribute to the alleviation of sensitive skin. The formulations were shown to resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum, as well as penetrate the skin without disrupting the lipid lamella organization.

Evaluation of the moisturizer Pédimed(®) in the foot care of diabetic patients.

AIM: Xerosis is one of the most common abnormalities observed in the diabetic foot, promoting ulceration through the development of fissures and hyperkeratosis. Its treatment is therefore paramount and must be implemented early on. The objective of this study was to assess the moisturizing properties of Pédimed(®) cream in the treatment of foot xerosis in diabetic patients. METHODS: In this randomized double-blind study, Pédimed(®) and its placebo were randomly allocated to the right/left foot of each patient (one active/one control side). Products were applied twice daily for 4 weeks. Xerosis was assessed using the clinical Xerosis Assessment Scale (XAS), corneometry (skin hydration measurement) and D-Squame(®) (scale sample analysis) after 14 (D14) and 28 (D28) days of treatment. RESULTS: Twenty-four men and 30 women, aged 57.0±12.7 years, with type 1 or type 2 diabetes and moderate-to-severe foot xerosis were included. A dramatic decrease in XAS score that was more marked with Pédimed(®) than with placebo was observed from D14 (38.1% vs 20.9%, P<0.0001), reaching 61.9% vs 34.9% at D28 (P<0.0001). The number of feet with fissures was greatly reduced with Pédimed(®) compared with placebo at both D14 (11.1% vs 22.2%, P=0.031) and D28 (5.6% vs 18.5%, P=0.039). Skin hydration increased by 48.9% with Pédimed(®) vs 31.7% with placebo at D14 (P=0.0002), reaching 57.3% vs 36.5% at D28 (P<0.0001). All D-Squame(®) parameters showed greater improvement with Pédimed(®). Product tolerability was excellent. CONCLUSION: Validated clinical and paraclinical tools demonstrated the efficacy of Pédimed(®) in improving xerosis and reducing fissures of the feet in diabetic patients.