Safety and Photoprotective Efficacy of a Sunscreen System Based on Grape Pomace (Vitis vinifera L.) Phenolics from Winemaking.

In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from Vitis vinifera L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% w/w + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.

Butyrospermum parkii butter increased the photostability and in vivo SPF of a molded sunscreen system.

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is related to skin and lip tumors. Therefore, the development of photoprotective lipstick formulations is of utmost importance. AIMS: Considering the biological properties of Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), we assessed its potential as an adjuvant in a molded lipstick sunscreen system by in vivo tests and photostability. PATIENTS/METHODS: Shea butter was used in a photoprotective lipstick formulation at two different concentrations (10.0% and 15.0% w/w) associated with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) and titanium dioxide. Skin compatibility was assessed in vivo. The in vivo SPF value was determined according to the current recognized method. Additionally, the photostability of EHM was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography. RESULTS: By the cutaneous compatibility, the product presented no interference with skin barrier and no adverse reactions, thus proving its safety. The in vivo SPF assay showed that the highest concentration of Shea butter increased the in vivo SPF value of the sample by 35%, demonstrating it to be a booster in photoprotective lipstick formulations. Also, Shea butter was proved to enhance the photostability of EHM, a commonly used UVB filter available in several countries. CONCLUSION: Shea butter increased the photostability and in vivo SPF of a molded lipstick sunscreen.

Influence of Shea (Butyrospermum parkii) butter, TiO2 and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate on physical parameters and in vitro photoprotective efficacy.

BACKGROUND: The development of photoprotective lipsticks containing natural bioactive compounds is a relevant current strategy to increase sun protection factor (SPF) value and lower the concentration of chemical UV filters, known for promoting sensitivity reactions. AIMS: Twelve photoprotective lipsticks were developed by Design of Experiment (DOE) and characterized to verify the influence of Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), titanium dioxide (TiO2 ), and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) on physical parameters and in vitro photoprotective efficacy. METHODS: The influence of Shea butter, TiO2, and EHM was evaluated by several parameters, such as melting point, colorimetry, thermal analysis by DSC, texture analysis, and sunscreen activity estimated in vitro. RESULTS: The construction of prediction models was possible for the following responses: maximum force by the cantilever test at 25 and 45°C; maximum distance by hardness test at 25°C; slope value at 25 and 45°C by the cantilever test; and UVA/UVB ratio and in vitro SPF. TiO2 and EHM contributed to changes on the in vitro SPF value; however, unexpectedly, Shea butter had no influence on this efficacy parameter. CONCLUSION: The assay allowed us to observe the influence of the variables in the analysis and to develop a response prediction model for some of the parameters assessed.