Elucidating the molecular landscape of the stratum corneum.

SignificanceSkin is recognized as an intricate assembly of molecular components, which facilitate cell signaling, metabolism, and protein synthesis mechanisms in order to offer protection, regulation, and sensation to the body. Our study takes significant steps to characterize in more detail the complex chemistry of the skin, in particular by generating a better understanding of the uppermost layer, the stratum corneum. Using a state-of-the-art 3D OrbiSIMS technique, we were able to observe the depth distribution, in situ, for a wide range of molecular species. This unprecedented molecular characterization of skin provides information that has the potential to benefit research into fundamental processes, such as those associated with skin aging and disease, and the development and delivery of effective topical formulations.

Enhanced vitamin C skin permeation from supramolecular hydrogels, illustrated using in situ ToF-SIMS 3D chemical profiling.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a naturally occurring, powerful anti-oxidant with the potential to deliver numerous benefits to the skin when applied topically. However, topical use of this compound is currently restricted by an instability in traditional formulations and the delivery and eventual fate of precursor compounds has been largely unexplored. Time of flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) is an emerging technique in the field of skin research and offers detailed chemical analysis, with high mass and spatial resolution, as well as profiling capabilities that allow analysis as a function of sample depth. This work demonstrates the successful use of ToF-SIMS to obtain, in situ, accurate 3D permeation profiles of both ascorbic acid and a popular precursor, ascorbyl glucoside, from ex vivo porcine skin. The significant permeation enhancing effect of a supramolecular hydrogel formulation, produced from an amphiphilic gemini imidazolium-based surfactant, was also demonstrated for both compounds. Using ToF-SIMS, it was also possible to detect and track the breakdown of ascorbyl glucoside into ascorbic acid, elucidating the ability of the hydrogel formulation to preserve this important conversion until the targeted epidermal layer has been reached. This work demonstrates the potential of ToF-SIMS to provide 3D permeation profiles collected in situ from ex vivo tissue samples, offering detailed analysis on compound localisation and degradation. This type of analysis has significant advantages in the area of skin permeation, but can also be readily translated to other tissue types.

Age-Related Changes to Human Stratum Corneum Lipids Detected Using Time-of-Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry Following in Vivo Sampling.

This work demonstrates the ability to detect changes in both quantity and spatial distribution of human stratum corneum (SC) lipids from samples collected in vivo. The SC functions as the predominant barrier to the body, protecting against the penetration of xenobiotic substances. Changes to the SC lipid composition have been associated with barrier impairment and consequent skin disorders, and it is therefore important to monitor and quantify changes to this structure. This work demonstrates the first reported use of time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) to assess physiological changes to human SC as a function of depth. This technique provides exceptional sensitivity and chemical specificity, allowing analysis of single tape stripped samples taken from volunteers. Using this methodology we were able to successfully identify chemical differences in human SC resulting from both intrinsic and extrinsic (photo) aging. Samples were collected from women of two age groups (under 27 and postmenopausal) and from two body sites with varying UV exposure (inner forearm and dorsal hand), and differences were identified using multivariate data analysis. The key finding was the significant aged-related increase and change in spatial distribution of the sterol cholesterol sulfate, a membrane stabilizing lipid. Significant changes in the prevalence of both lignoceric acid (C24:0) and hexacosanoic acid (C26:0) were also observed. This work describes previously unreported age-related chemical changes to human SC, providing an insight into aging mechanisms which may improve the design of both pharmaceutical and cosmetic topical products.