RESUMO
The pilling resistance of fashion fabrics is a fundamentally important and frequently occurring problem during cloth wearing. The aim of this investigation was to evaluate the pilling performance of linen/silk woven fabrics with different mechanical and chemical finishing, establishing the influence of the raw material and the peculiarities of dyeing and digital printing with different dyestuff. The pilling results of the dyed fabrics were better than those of the grey fabrics and even a small amount of synthetic fiber worsened the pilling performance of the fabric. Singeing influenced the change in the pilling resistance of the linen/silk fabrics without changing the final pilling resistance result. Singeing had a stronger influence on the fabrics with a small amount of synthetic fibers. The pilling resistance of printed fabrics was better than that of grey and dyed fabrics without and with singeing. The pilling resistance of pigment-printed fabrics was better than that of the reactive-printed fabrics.
RESUMO
The behaviour of textile products made from different fibres during finishing has been investigated by many scientists, but these investigations have usually been performed with cotton or synthetic yarns and fabrics. However, the properties of raw materials such as linen and hemp (other cellulose fibres) and linen/silk (cellulose/protein fibres) have rarely been investigated. The aim of the study was to investigate and compare the mechanical (breaking force and elongation at break) and end-use (colour fastness to artificial light, area density, and abrasion resistance) properties of cellulose and cellulose/protein woven fabrics. For all fabrics, ΔE was smaller than three, which is generally imperceptible to the human eye. Flax demonstrated the best dyeability, and hemp demonstrated the poorest dyeability, comparing all the tested fabrics. The colour properties of fabrics were greatly influenced by the washing procedure, and even different fabric components of different weaves lost their colours in different ways. Flax fibres were more crystalline than hemp, and those fibres were more amorphous, which decreased the crystallinity index of flax in flax/silk blended fabric. Unwashed flax fabric was more resistant to artificial light than flax/silk or hemp fabrics. Finishing had a great influence on the abrasion resistance of fabrics. The yarn fibre composition and the finishing process for fabrics both influenced the mechanical (breaking force and elongation at break) and end-use (area density and abrasion resistance) properties of grey and finished fabrics woven from yarns made of different fibres.
