Structural characterization of plant glucosylceramides and the corresponding ceramides by UHPLC-LTQ-Orbitrap mass spectrometry.

Ceramides (CERs) play a major role in skin barrier function and direct replacement of depleted skin CERs, due to skin disorder or aging, has beneficial effects in improving skin barrier function and skin hydration. Though, plants are reliable source of CERs, absence of economical and effective method of hydrolysis to convert the dominant plant sphingolipid, glucosylceramides (GlcCERs), into CERs remains a challenge. This study aims at exploring alternative GlcCERs sources and chemical method of hydrolysis into CERs for dermal application. GlcCERs isolated from lupin bean (Lupinus albus), mung bean (Vigna radiate) and naked barley (Hordium vulgare) were identified using ultra high performance liquid chromatography hyphenated with atmospheric pressure chemical ionization - high resolution tandem mass spectrometer (UHPLC/APCI-HRMS/MS) and quantified with validated automated multiple development-high performance thin layer chromatography (AMD-HPTLC) method. Plant GlcCERs were hydrolyzed into CERs with mild acid hydrolysis (0.1 N HCl) after treating them with oxidizing agent, NaIO4, and reducing agent, NaBH4. GlcCERs with 4,8-sphingadienine, 8-sphingenine and 4-hydroxy-8-sphingenine sphingoid bases linked with C14 to C26 α-hydroxylated fatty acids (FAs) were identified. Single GlcCER (m/z 714.5520) was dominant in lupin and mung beans while five major GlcCERs species (m/z 714.5520, m/z 742.5829, m/z 770.6144, m/z 842.6719 and m/z 844.56875) were obtained from naked barley. The GlcCERs contents of the three plants were comparable. However, lupin bean contains predominantly (> 98 %) a single GlcCER (m/z 714.5520). Considering the affordability, GlcCER content and yield, lupin bean would be the preferred alternative commercial source of GlcCERs. CER species bearing 4,8-sphingadienine and 8-sphingenine sphingoid bases attached to C14 to 24 FAs were found after mild acid hydrolysis. CER species with m/z 552.4992 was the main component in the beans while CER with m/z 608.5613 was dominant in the naked barley. However, CERs with 4-hydroxy-8-sphingenine sphingoid base were not detected in UHPLC-HRMS/MS study suggesting that the method works for mainly GlcCERs carrying dihydroxy sphingoid bases. The method is economical and effective which potentiates the commercialization of plant CERs for dermal application.

Investigation of ex vivo Skin Penetration of Coenzyme Q10 from Microemulsions and Hydrophilic Cream.

INTRODUCTION: Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) has been widely used in topical and cosmeceutical products due to its cutaneous antioxidant and energizer effects. CoQ10 is found in a higher concentration in the epidermis compared to dermis. The epidermal level of CoQ10 can be reduced due to several factors such as skin UV irradiation and photoaging. Various dermal nano-formulations have been investigated to overcome the skin barrier and enhance the poor penetration of CoQ10. The nanocarriers are designed to target and concentrate the CoQ10 in the viable epidermis. Most of these studies, however, failed to show the depth and extent of penetration of CoQ10 from the various carrier systems. OBJECTIVE: The distribution of CoQ10 across the various skin layers has to be shown using skin slices representing the different skin layers. METHODS: To realize this objective, a sensitive and selective HPLC method was developed and validated for the quantification of CoQ10 in the different skin slices. The method applicability to skin penetration (using excised human skin) as well as stability studies was investigated using CoQ10-loaded lecithin-based microemulsion (ME) and hydrophilic cream formulations. RESULTS: It could be shown that the highest concentration of CoQ10 in the viable epidermis, the target skin layer for CoQ10, was observed after application of the CoQ10 in the hydrophilic cream. This cream contains 10% of 2-ethylhexyl laurate which works obviously as a penetration enhancer for CoQ10. In contrast, the penetration of CoQ10 was lower from the ME. Just in the deeper dermis, a certain amount of CoQ10 could be detected. CONCLUSIONS: The HPLC method quantified the trace quantities of the CoQ10 distributed across the various skin layers and, hence, can be used to investigate the skin penetration of CoQ10 from various dermal standard and nano-formulations.

Development and validation of LC/APCI-MS method for the quantification of oat ceramides in skin permeation studies.

Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Replenishing the depleted epidermal CERs with exogenous CERs has been shown to have beneficial effects in improving the skin barrier and hydration. The exogenous CERs such as phyto-derived CERs (PhytoCERs) can be delivered deep into the SC using novel topical formulations. This, however, requires investigating the rate and extent of skin permeation of CERs. In this study, an LC/APCI-MS method to detect and quantify PhytoCERs in different layers of the skin has been developed and validated. The method was used to investigate the skin permeation of PhytoCERs using Franz diffusion cells after applying an amphiphilic cream containing PhytoCERs to the surface of ex vivo human skin. As plant-specific CERs are not commercially available, well-characterized CERs isolated from oat (Avena abyssinica) were used as reference standards for the development and validation of the method. The method was linear over the range of 30-1050 ng/mL and sensitive with limit of detection and quantification of 10 and 30 ng/mL, respectively. The method was also selective, accurate, and precise with minimal matrix effect (with mean matrix factor around 100%). Even if more than 85% of oat CERs in the cream remained in the cream after the incubation periods of 30, 100, and 300 min, it was possible to quantify the small quantities of oat CERs distributed across the SC, epidermis, and dermis of the skin indicating the method's sensitivity. Therefore, the method can be used to investigate the skin permeation of oat CERs from the various pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products without any interference from the skin constituents such as the epidermal lipids. Graphical abstract ᅟ.

Delivery of oat-derived phytoceramides into the stratum corneum of the skin using nanocarriers: Formulation, characterization and in vitro and ex-vivo penetration studies.

Deficiency or altered composition of stratum corneum (SC) lipids such as ceramides (CERs), causing skin barrier dysfunction and skin dryness, have been associated with skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, and ageing. Replenishing the depleted native CERs with exogenous CERs has also been shown to have beneficial effects in restoring the skin barrier. Phyto-derived CERs such as oat CERs were shown to be potential for skin barrier reinforcement. To effect this, however, the oat CERs should overcome the SC barrier and delivered deep into the lipid matrix using the various novel formulations. In an attempt to demonstrate the potential use of oat CERs, lecithin-based microemulsions (MEs) and starch-based nanoparticles (NPs) were formulated and characterized. Besides, ME gel and NP gel were also prepared using Carbopol®980 as a gelling agent. The in vitro release and penetration (using artificial four-layer membrane system) and ex vivo permeation (using excised human skin) of oat CERs from the various formulations were investigated. The results revealed ME enhanced the in vitro release and penetration oat CERs compared to the other formulations. On the other hand, the NPs retarded the release of oat CERs and small quantities of oat CERs incorporated into NP gel penetrated into the deeper layers of the multilayer membranes. The penetration-enhancing effect of ME was also observed in the ex vivo permeation studies where significant quantities of oat CERs were found in the acceptor compartment. Compared to the ME, the ME gel exhibited reduced depth and extent of oat CERs permeation. As compared to NP gel, ME gel enhanced the degree of permeation of oat CERs into the deeper layer of the skin. Generally the gel formulations were effective in concentrating oat CERs in the SC where they are needed to be.

Potential application of oat-derived ceramides in improving skin barrier function: Part 1. Isolation and structural characterization.

The impaired epidermal barrier and skin dryness in chronic skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and aged skin are associated with the depletion of ceramides (CERs) in the stratum corneum. Previously, the beneficial effects of phyto-CERs, mainly from wheat and rice, in replenishing the depleted epidermal CERs and restoring the skin barrier have been shown. However, very few efforts have been made to exploit CERs from other plants for dermal applications. In an attempt to explore alternative plant source of CERs, glucosylceramides (GlcCERs) were isolated from the lipid extract of Ethiopian oat grain (Avena abyssinica). The GlcCER species were separated on a reversed phase HPLC and the structure of individual GlcCERs were identified by tandem MS with atmospheric pressure chemical ionization interface. The glycosidic linkage of the GlcCERs was cleaved by acid treatment and the predominant CERs species were isolated using column chromatography and preparative LC-MS. Further structural characterization of the CERs was made by HR/ESI-MS and NMR analyses. All the detected oat-derived GlcCER species consisted of C18 dihydroxy sphingoid bases amide-linked with α-hydroxylated saturated fatty acids (C16-C24). The two predominant GlcCER species consisted of sphingenine (d18:1) amide-linked to hydroxypalmitic acid (h16:0) and hydroxyarachidic acid (h20:0). The molecular formulae of the two major CERs assigned by HR/ESI-MS were identical to the ones identified by LC/APCI-MS/MS. The structural information was also supported by 1H, 13C, 1H COSY NMR and HMBC spectral analyses. The amount of GlcCERs in oat grain, quantified by HPTLC, was found to be 193.5mg/kg. The results indicated the similarity of oat CERs with commercial plant CERs (with comparable GlcCER content) suggesting its potential as source of CERs for oral (as dietary supplements) as well as topical applications.

Isolation and structural characterization of glucosylceramides from Ethiopian plants by LC/APCI-MS/MS.

Chronic skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and aged skin are characterized by defective skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of skin ceramides (CERs). The beneficial effects of plant-derived CERs for skin hydration and skin barrier recovery have been shown in several studies. Although plenty of glucosylceramide (GlcCER)-based dietary supplements meant for skin barrier improvement have been marketed, there are limited commercial sources of plant GlcCERs. In an attempt to explore alternative GlcCER sources, a reversed phase LC-MS/MS method with atmospheric pressure chemical ionization (APCI) interface was developed for separation and structural identification of GlcCERs isolated from three plants. The GlcCERs were extracted from the seeds of grass pea (Lathyrus sativus L.), Ethiopian mustard (Brassica carinata) and haricot bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) and purified by column chromatography and preparative LC-MS. The individual GlcCER species were further separated and qualitatively analyzed by LC/APCI-MS/MS. The amount of GlcCERs in each plant was quantified by HPTLC. All GlcCER species detected in the three plants consisted of C18 di/trihydroxy sphingoid bases amide linked with hydroxy fatty acids (C14-C24). The trihydroxy SBs were acylated with very long chain FAs (C22-C24). The major GlcCERs derived from grass pea, Ethiopian mustard and haricot bean are composed of sphingenine (d18:1) linked to hydroxypalmitic acid (h16:0), 4-hydroxy-8-sphingenine (t18:1) coupled with hydroxynervonic acid (h24:1) and sphingadienine (d18:2) joined with h16:0, respectively. The GlcCERs contents in haricot bean (161.2mg/kg) and grass pea (130.0mg/kg) were found to be higher compared to Ethiopian mustard (71.8mg/kg). This qualitative and quantitative information suggests that the two plants of the Fabaceae family (haricot bean and grass pea) are potential alternative sources of GlcCERs for their use in products meant for the recovery of skin barrier function. The LC/APCI-MS/MS method described here has proven to be reliable for the screening of other potential plants containing GlcCERs.

Potential Applications of Phyto-Derived Ceramides in Improving Epidermal Barrier Function.

The outer most layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes which are coated by a cornified envelope and embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure. It is responsible for the skin barrier function. Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid membranes. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Previously, the effectiveness of supplementation of synthetic and animal-based CERs in replenishing the depleted natural skin CERs and restoring the skin barrier function have been investigated. Recently, however, the barrier function improving effect of plant-derived CERs has attracted much attention. Phyto-derived CERs (phytoCERs) are preferable due to their assumed higher safety as they are mostly isolated from dietary sources. The beneficial effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements for skin hydration and skin barrier reinforcement have been indicated in several studies involving animal models as well as human subjects. Ingestible dietary supplements containing phytoCERs are also widely available on the market. Nonetheless, little effort has been made to investigate the potential cosmetic applications of topically administered phytoCERs. Therefore, summarizing the foregoing investigations and identifying the gap in the scientific data on plant-derived CERs intended for skin-health benefits are of paramount importance. In this review, an attempt is made to synthesize the information available in the literature regarding the effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements on skin hydration and barrier function with the underlying mechanisms.