Video-based paired comparison to evaluate some cosmetic products under camera movement for dynamic performance.

OBJECTIVE: Until now, standardized evaluation of cosmetic effects was conducted mainly in still conditions such as pictures. In real life, the consumers' experience of their cosmetics' effects is dynamic and some of the benefits can be better observed under movement. In order to capture motion-related performance of cosmetics, we developed a video-based paired comparison on an online platform. METHODS: We validated this new tool through the evaluation of eyeshadow with high light reflection and colour gradation, especially visible under motion according to the observer point of view. This formula was compared with two marketed benchmarks. The three products were applied sequentially on the eyelid of eight Japanese women. Videos were taken in standardized light, speed and face position with a rotating camera around the face. The videos were uploaded on an online secured platform and eyelid 3D effect, highlight and colour gradation were evaluated through paired comparison test by 60 Japanese women from home on their PC or tablets. Those results were compared with picture-based paired comparison by the same observers. RESULTS: Video-based paired comparison provided higher discrimination of products compared to picture-based comparison. CONCLUSION: As compared to still camera acquisition, the evaluation of cosmetics based on videos is closer to real-life experience and can bring higher discrimination, especially for motion-related attributes.

OBJECTIF: Jusqu'à présent, l'évaluation standardisée des effets cosmétiques a été réalisée principalement dans des conditions immobiles telles que des photos. Dans la vie réelle, l'expérience des consommateurs des effets de leurs cosmétiques est dynamique, et certains des avantages peuvent être mieux observés en mouvement. Afin de saisir les performances des produits cosmétiques liées au mouvement, nous avons mis au point une comparaison par paires basée sur des vidéos sur une plateforme en ligne. MÉTHODES: Nous avons validé ce nouvel outil en évaluant un fard à paupières à forte réflexion lumineuse et à gradation de couleurs, particulièrement visible en mouvement selon le point de vue de l'observateur. Cette formule a été comparée à deux références commercialisées. Les trois produits ont été appliqués successivement sur la paupière de huit femmes japonaises. Les vidéos ont été prises dans des conditions de lumière, de vitesse et de position du visage normalisées, avec une caméra tournant autour du visage. Les vidéos ont été téléchargées sur une plateforme sécurisée en ligne, et l'effet 3D des paupières, l'accentuation et la gradation des couleurs ont été évalués au moyen d'un test de comparaison par paires par 60 femmes japonaises depuis leur domicile sur leur PC ou leur tablette. Ces résultats ont été mis en parallèle à une comparaison par paires sur photo par les mêmes observateurs. RÉSULTATS: La comparaison par paires sur vidéo a permis de mieux distinguer les produits par rapport à la comparaison sur photo. CONCLUSION: Par rapport à l'acquisition d'images fixes, l'évaluation des cosmétiques à partir de vidéos est plus proche de l'expérience réelle et peut permettre de mieux distinguer les produits, en particulier pour les attributs liés au mouvement.

Appearance of aging signs in differently pigmented facial skin by a novel imaging system.

BACKGROUND: Facial wrinkles, pores, and uneven skin tone are major beauty concerns. There is differential manifestation of aging signs in different ethnic groups. In this regard, studies on Black Africans from the African continent are scarce. OBJECTIVE: To investigate facial wrinkles, pores, and skin tone in Black African women from Mauritius Island and elucidate the differences to Caucasian women from France. METHODS: Facial images were taken using the imaging system ColorFace® . Wrinkles and pores were measured by their length, depth, surface, volume, and number; for skin tone, we measured L*a*b* and calculated ITA, IWANewtone , and color homogeneity. RESULTS: We found good correlations of wrinkle and pore scores with expert ranking done on ColorFace® images for Caucasians (Spearman's rho = 0.78 and 0.72) and Black Africans (Spearman's rho = 0.86 and 0.65). Caucasians showed more advanced facial signs of aging than Black Africans. Exceptions were vertical lines on upper lip and the depth of pores which were greatest for the Black African subjects. Black Africans had higher heterogeneity scores indicative for uneven skin tone. Luminance (L*) was significantly higher in Caucasians but a* and b* values were significantly higher in the Black African subjects. ITA and IWANewtone were significantly higher for Caucasians. CONCLUSIONS: The high correlation between expert ranking and wrinkle and pore measurements prove ColorFace® a valid imaging system to study skin aging. Our results show that Africans from the African continent show delayed signs of aging compared to Caucasians. Some exceptions suggest that ethnic differences in facial aging are a complex phenomenon.