Analysis of epidermal lipids of the healthy human skin: factors affecting the design of a control population.

The intervariability of studies on the lipids of human epidermis and stratum corneum is high because of the different origin of the skin samples and the variety of extraction methods used. In the present work, a high-performance thin-layer chromatographic technique has been used to study the parameters age, sex, and anatomical site for their effects on the lipid profiles recovered from healthy epidermal skin biopsy specimens. It was found that sex-related differences were seen at the level of the total ceramide concentration. Observed decreases in lipid concentration, due to ageing, depended on the anatomical site. Therefore, these variables should be controlled in a reproducible and standardized way in order to be able to study the direct relationship between skin condition and barrier lipid composition. Only when this relation is established, results of topical treatment can be scientifically evaluated.

Phospholipid composition of cell-derived microparticles determined by one-dimensional high-performance thin-layer chromatography.

Microparticles in the circulation activate the coagulation system and may activate the complement system via C-reactive protein upon conversion of membrane phospholipids by phospholipases. We developed a sensitive and reproducible method to determine the phospholipid composition of microparticles. Samples were applied to horizontal, one-dimensional high-performance thin-layer chromatography (HPTLC). Phospholipids were separated on HPTLC by chloroform:ethyl acetate:acetone:isopropanol:ethanol:methanol:water:acetic acid (30:6:6:6:16:28:6:2); visualized by charring with 7.5% Cu-acetate (w/v), 2.5% CuSO(4) (w/v), and 8% H(3)PO(4) (v/v) in water; and quantified by photodensitometric scanning. Erythrocyte membranes were used to validate the HPTLC system. Microparticles were isolated from plasma of healthy individuals (n = 10). On HPTLC, mixtures of (purified) phospholipids, i.e., lysophosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylcholine (PC), sphingomyelin (SM), lysophosphatidylserine, phosphatidylserine, lysophosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylethanolamine (PE), and phosphatidylinositol, could be separated and quantified. All phospholipids were detectable in erythrocyte ghosts, and their quantities fell within ranges reported earlier. Quantitation of phospholipids, including extraction, was highly reproducible (CV < 10%). Microparticles contained PC (59%), SM (20.6%), and PE (9.4%), with relatively minor (<5%) quantities of other phospholipids. HPTLC can be used to study the phospholipid composition of cell-derived microparticles and may also be a useful technique for the analysis of other samples that are available only in minor quantities.

Lack of desquamation - the Achilles heel of the reconstructed epidermis.

The use of human skin equivalents for screening tests aiming to assess repetitive application of various test agents is hampered by the lack of desquamation in vitro. The present study was undertaken to examine whether the desquamation can be induced by various treatments including mechanical stress, application of various agents that should decrease the surface pH and calcium level, activate the enzymes involved in desquamation process or UV irradiation. In addition, the effect of alpha-hydroxyacids, known to enhance desquamation and to improve the stratum corneum barrier function in vivo, was examined as well. Human epidermis reconstructed on de-epidermized dermis or on fibroblast-populated collagen matrices during a 2-week culture at the air-liquid interface underwent various treatments during an additional 3-week period. The effects of treatments were evaluated on the basis of tissue morphology and lipid composition. The results of the present study revealed that cell shedding could only be induced by a mild repetitive mechanical treatment. The lack of desquamation, under most in vitro conditions, has a practical consequence, since it may hamper the use of reconstructed epidermis for various screening studies aiming to examine the repetitive exposure to topical agents or UV irradiation. The gradual thickening of the stratum corneum will lead to its higher resistance to the environmental stimuli and in this way affect the outcome of the tests. Furthermore, from the results obtained in the present study, it became evident that one should be careful in selecting endpoints when, for example, the effects of agents known to modulate melanogenesis are examined.

Determination of stratum corneum lipid profile by tape stripping in combination with high-performance thin-layer chromatography.

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC) are responsible for the barrier function of mammalian skin. The main components of the SC lipids are ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, as established by thin-layer chromatographic analysis of lipids extracted from the human and mammalian SC. Up to now, for lipid analysis the extracts of the entire SC has been used and information on whether the lipid composition changes with the depth in the SC is scarce. Tape stripping is a technique which removes corneocyte layers step by step with an adhesive film. The use of this technique for lipid analysis was hampered by the contamination of lipid extracts with compounds co-extracted from the tape with organic solvents used for the extraction of SC lipids. The aim of the present study was to establish a suitable analytical method for the determination of the local SC lipid composition. For this purpose, the SC samples were collected by sequential stripping with Leukoplex tape in five healthy volunteers. The lipids were extracted with ethyl acetate:methanol mixture (20:80) and separated by means of HPTLC. The results of this study revealed that the free fatty acid level is highest and the cholesterol and ceramide levels lowest in the uppermost SC layers (about 4 strippings). The levels remained unchanged in the underlying SC layers. In these layers, the ceramide level was about 60 wt% and the free fatty acid and cholesterol levels were about 20 wt% each. Ceramides could be separated into seven different fractions and the relative amounts of individual ceramide fractions did not significantly change with the SC depth. Cholesterol sulfate levels were about 5% of total cholesterol and did not change with the SC depth, except for the for the first strip where the level was about 1%. The method developed makes it possible to study the differences in the SC lipid profile in healthy and diseased human skin with relation to the SC lipid organization and to the skin barrier function in vivo.

Lipid and ultrastructural characterization of reconstructed skin models.

The study aimed at evaluating tissue architecture and quality of the permeability barrier in commercially available reconstructed human skin models; EpiDerm, SkinEthic and Episkin in comparison to native tissue. For this purpose, tissue architecture was examined by electron microscopy and epidermal lipid composition was analyzed by HPTLC. Stratum corneum lipid organization was investigated by electron microscopy in combination with RuO(4) post-fixation and by SAXD. Ultrastructurally, the overall tissue architecture showed high similarities with native epidermis. In the stratum corneum extracellular space, lipid lamellae consisting of multiple alternating electron-dense and electron-lucent bands were present. This regular pattern was not seen throughout the whole stratum corneum probably due to the observed irregular lamellar body extrusion in some areas. Lipid analyses revealed the presence of all major epidermal lipid classes. Compared with native epidermis the content of polar ceramides 5 and 6 was lower, ceramide 7 was absent, and the content of free fatty acids was very low. These differences in lipid composition may account for differences observed in SAXD pattern of Episkin and EpiDerm penetration models. In the latter only the long-distance periodicity unit of about 12 nm was observed and the short periodicity unit was missing. In conclusion, all three skin models provide a promising means for studying the effects of topically applied chemicals, although the observed deviations in tissue homeostasis and barrier properties need to be optimized.

Covalently bound lipids in reconstructed human epithelia.

The composition of free and covalently bound lipids in reconstructed epithelia generated with normal human keratinocytes, HaCaT cells and squamous carcinoma cells was investigated and compared with native skin. Stratum corneum isolated from native human and reconstructed epidermis was subjected to extensive extraction with chloroform-methanol mixtures followed by alkaline hydrolysis to release covalently bound lipids. High-performance thin layer chromatography was used for analysis of solvent-extractable and non-extractable lipids and gas liquid chromatography was performed to assess the fatty acid profile in extractable lipids. In both native and reconstructed tissue covalently bound lipids consisted of omega-hydroxyceramides, omega-hydroxyacids and free fatty acids. Small amounts of omega-hydroxyacids could already be detected in solvent-extractable fractions. omega-Hydroxyceramides consisted of Ceramide A, Ceramide B and a small fraction of unknown ceramides with intermediate polarity. The relative proportions of individual omega-hydroxyceramides were similar in both native and reconstructed stratum corneum. In contrast, differences were found in profiles of both solvent-extractable and non-extractable lipids isolated from epithelia reconstructed with transformed cell lines (HaCaT, SCC-12F2 and SCC-13 cells). Compared with native or reconstructed epidermis, in epithelia reconstructed with transformed cell lines the ceramide content was low, the most polar ceramides were missing and the content of free fatty acids was low. The same holds true for covalently bound lipids that were virtually absent in these epithelia. Marked similarities were demonstrated in the overall lipid composition of free and bound stratum corneum lipids in native epidermis and in epidermis reconstructed with normal human keratinocytes. The observed imbalance in fatty acid profile may account for differences in phase behaviour of stratum corneum lipids.

Incorporation of linoleic acid by cultured human keratinocytes.

Linoleic acid is required for the formation and maintenance of the epidermal barrier, but most of the current in vitro keratinocyte culture systems are linoleic acid-deficient. The aim of the present study was to examine the efficiency of linoleic acid uptake in human keratinocyte cultures grown under submerged and air-exposed conditions in serum-free medium. The water-insoluble linoleic acid was bound to carrier molecules (cyclodextrin or bovine serum albumin). Comparable results were obtained with home-made and commercially available linoleic acid complexes. In the submerged cultures, the increase of the linoleic acid medium concentration (ranging from 0 to 20 microg/ml) resulted in a gradual increase in the linoleic acid cellular content, which exceeded 1.4 times the value found in native epidermis when the highest concentration of linoleic acid was used. The addition of linoleic acid did not alter the profile of the other epidermal fatty acids, with the exception of oleic acid, which decreased in parallel with the increasing linoleic acid content. While the content of linoleic acid found in phospholipids was similar to that in native epidermis, a large excess of linoleic acid was detected in triglycerides, the synthesis of which was markedly increased in cultures grown submerged in medium containing higher concentrations of linoleic acid. Under air-exposed conditions, the dermal substrate used seemed to be the most limiting factor for efficient linoleic acid supplementation. A low linoleic acid cellular content was detected when an inert filter was used. De-epidermized dermis was found to be the most permeable substrate for linoleic acid complexes. The cellular linoleic acid content increased in a parallel with the increasing linoleic acid concentration (ranging from 4 to 30 microg/ml), but the overall amount incorporated was lower than that in submerged cultures. The content of linoleic acid in the phospholipid and ceramide fractions isolated from reconstructed epidermis grown under air-exposed conditions was close to that of native epidermis, but the triglycerides remained abnormally enriched in linoleic acid, indicating persistence of some anomalies in epidermal lipogenesis in vitro.

The role of ceramide composition in the lipid organisation of the skin barrier.

The lipid lamellae in the stratum corneum (SC) play a key role in the barrier function of the skin. The major lipids are ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA). In pig SC at least six subclasses of ceramides (referred to as CER 1, 2-6) are present. Recently it was shown that in mixtures of isolated pig SC ceramides (referred to as CER(1-6)) and CHOL two lamellar phases are formed, which mimic SC lipid organisation very closely [J.A. Bouwstra et al., 1996, J. Lipid Res. 37, 999-1011] [1]. Since the CER composition in SC originating from different sources/donors often varies, information on the effect of variations in CER composition on the SC lipid organisation is important. The results of the present study with mixtures of CHOL including two different CER mixtures that lack CER 6 (CER(1-5) mixtures) revealed that at an equimolar molar ratio their lipid organisation was similar to that of the equimolar CHOL:CER(1-6) and CHOL:CER(1,2) mixtures, described previously. These observations suggest that at an equimolar CHOL:CER ratio the lipid organisation is remarkably insensitive toward a change in the CER composition. Similar observations have been made with equimolar CHOL:CER:FFA mixtures. The situation is different when the CHOL:CER molar ratio varies. While in the CHOL:CER(1-6) mixture the lamellar organisation hardly changed with varying molar ratio from 0.4 to 2, the lamellar organisation in the CHOL:CER(1-5) mixtures appeared to be more sensitive to a change in the relative CHOL content, especially concerning the changes in the periodicities of the lamellar phases. In summary, these findings clearly indicate that at an equimolar CHOL:CER molar ratio the lamellar organisation is least sensitive to a variation in CER composition, while at a reduced CHOL:CER molar ratio the CER composition plays a more prominent role in the lamellar phases. This observation may have an implication for the in vivo situation when both the CER composition and the CHOL:CER molar ratio change simultaneously.

pH, cholesterol sulfate, and fatty acids affect the stratum corneum lipid organization.

Lipid mixtures prepared from cholesterol (CHOL), isolated ceramides (CER), and free fatty acids can serve as attractive tools to study the role various stratum corneum (SC) lipids or microenvironmental conditions play in the SC lipid organization, as the phase behavior in these mixtures and in SC are similar: two lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 6 and 13 nm are present. Because pH and cholesterol sulfate (CSO4) gradients exist in SC and may affect the local SC lipid organization, the effects of pH and CSO4 on lipid phase behavior was examined. X-ray diffraction studies with CHOL:CER mixtures revealed that the lamellar ordering at pH 5 and 7.4 were similar: both the short and the long periodicity phases were present. Upon addition of free fatty acids the phase behavior became pH dependent; the long periodicity phase being more dominant at pH 7.4 than at pH 5. Similar observations have been made upon addition of CSO4. Furthermore, only in the presence of CSO4 did phase-separated CHOL disappear, indicating that CHOL completely dissolves in the lamellar phases. A major phase change from an hexagonal to an orthorhombic lateral packing has been observed in the presence of free fatty acids. Furthermore, in the presence of CSO4 next to orthorhombic also liquid lateral packing could be detected. In contrast to lamellar ordering, changes in pH did not affect the lateral packing in any of the lipid mixtures studied.

Stratum corneum lipid composition and structure in cultured skin substitutes is restored to normal after grafting onto athymic mice.

Restoration of an epidermal barrier is a definitive requirement for wound closure. Cultured skin substitutes grafted onto athymic nude mice were used as a model for a long-term study of stratum corneum barrier lipid metabolism and organization. Samples of stratum corneum collected after 12 and 21 d in vitro and 6, 11, and 24 mo postgrafting were examined for their lipid and fatty acid composition, and their lipid organization and structure using electron microscopy and small angle X-ray diffraction, respectively. All of these methods confirm the impaired barrier function of cultured skin substitutes in vitro, as judged from the deviations in lipid composition and from poor organization of the stratum corneum lipids that show no lamellar structure. At 6 mo postgrafting, the total stratum corneum lipid profiles of the epidermal grafts is close to that of the human stratum corneum with the exception of the presence of mouse specific lipids. The increase of ceramides 4-7 in cultured skin substitutes after grafting indicates restored activity of processes involved in the hydroxylation of fatty acids and sphingoid bases. Conversely, the ceramide profile still reveals some abnormalities (elevated content of ceramide 2 and slightly lower content of ceramide 3) and the content of long-chain fatty acids remains below its physiologic level at 6 mo postgrafting, but normalizes by 2 y postgrafting. The ultramicroscopic observations revealed the formation of lamellar extracellular lipid domains by 4 mo postgrafting. Despite these findings, the X-ray diffraction showed differences in the diffraction pattern at 2 y after grafting, suggesting that the organization of stratum corneum lipids in all epidermal grafts differs from that of the native skin.

Role of ceramide 1 in the molecular organization of the stratum corneum lipids.

The main barrier of the skin is formed by the lipids in the apical skin layer, the stratum corneum (SC). In SC mainly ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol (CHOL) are present. The CER are composed of at least six different fractions. CER 1 has an exceptional molecular structure as it contains a linoleic acid linked to a long-chain omega-hydroxy acid (C > 30). The SC lipids are organized in two lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 6 and 13 nm, respectively. Recent studies revealed that ceramides isolated from pig SC mixed with cholesterol in confined ratios mimic stratum corneum lipid phase behavior closely (Bouwstra, J.A., et al. 1996. J. Lipid Res. 37: 999-1011). In this paper the role of CER 1 for the SC lipid lamellar organization was studied. For this purpose lipid phase behavior of mixtures of CHOL and total ceramide fraction was compared with that of mixtures of CHOL and a ceramide mixture lacking CER 1. These studies showed that in the absence of CER 1 almost no long periodicity phase was formed over a wide CHOL/CER molar ratio. A model is proposed for the molecular arrangement of the two lamellar phases. This model is based on the dominant role CER 1 plays in the formation of the long periodicity phase, electron density distribution calculations, and observations, such as i) the bimodal distribution of the fatty acid chain lengths of the ceramides, ii) the phase separation between long-chain ceramides and short-chain ceramides in a monolayer approach, and iii) the absence of swelling of the lamellae upon increasing the water content organization in SC. In this molecular model the short periodicity phase is composed of only two high electron density regions indicating the presence of only one bilayer, similar to that often found in phospholipid membranes. The molecular arrangement in the long periodicity phase is very exceptional. This phase most probably consists of two broad and one narrow low electron density regions. The two broad regions are formed by partly interdigitating ceramides with long-chain fatty acids of approximately 24-26 C atoms, while the narrow low-electron density region is formed by fully interdigitating ceramides with a short free fatty acid chain of approximately 16 to 18 C atoms.

The formation of competent barrier lipids in reconstructed human epidermis requires the presence of vitamin C.

Our analysis of epidermal lipids revealed that (glucosyl)ceramide profiles in various human skin equivalents are different from those of native tissue. The main difference is the reduced content in skin equivalents of ceramides 4-7 and especially the very low content of the most polar ceramides 6 and 7, which contain hydroxylated sphingoid base and/or fatty acid. To facilitate hydroxylation, the culture medium was supplemented with vitamins C and E. Although in vitamin E-supplemented medium lipogenesis was not affected, in vitamin C-supplemented medium the content of glucosylceramides and of ceramides 6 and 7 was markedly increased, both in the presence and absence of serum and irrespective the substrate used (inert or natural, populated or not with fibroblasts). The improvement of the lipid profile was accompanied by a marked improvement of the barrier formation as judged from extensive production of lamellar bodies, their complete extrusion at the stratum granulosum/stratum corneum interface, and the formation of multiple broad lipid lamellar structures in the intercorneocyte space. The presence of well-ordered lipid lamellar phases was confirmed by small-angle x-ray diffraction. Some differences between native and reconstructed epidermis, however, were noticed. Although the long-range lipid lamellar phase was present in both the native and the reconstructed epidermis, the short lamellar phase was present only in native tissue. It remains to be established whether these differences can be ascribed to small differences in relative amounts of individual ceramides, to differences in fatty acid profiles, or to differences in cholesterol sulfate, pH, or calcium gradients. The results indicate the key role vitamin C plays in the formation of stratum corneum barrier lipids.

Epidermal growth factor and temperature regulate keratinocyte differentiation.

The limited life-span and irregularities in epidermal differentiation and barrier function that have restricted the utility of presently available skin culture models for pharmacological and toxicological studies indicate that further modifications of culture conditions are required for optimization of these models. In the present study epidermis reconstructed on de-epidermized dermis was used to investigate the effects of temperature and epidermal growth factor (EGF) on epidermal differentiation and lipogenesis. When cultured at 37 degrees C, keratinocytes formed a well-differentiated epidermis whether EGF was present or not. However, the thickness of the epidermis, particularly of the stratum corneum, was higher in the presence of EGF. Both the differentiation-specific protein markers (keratins 1 and 10, involucrin and transglutaminase) and lipid markers (ceramides) were synthesized. EGF-induced increases in triglyceride content caused accumulation of lipid droplets within the stratum corneum which is indicative of a hyperproliferative effect of EGF. In the absence of EGF, a well-differentiated epidermis was generated at 33 degrees C with a morphology showing a higher resemblance to native epidermis than cultures grown at 37 degrees C. The stratum corneum was less compact and with practically no lipid droplets, irregularly shaped keratohyalin granules were abundant in the stratum granulosum, lamellar body extrusion was improved and the number of stratum corneum layers was reduced to normal levels. However, EGF supplementation had a deleterious effect on epidermal morphogenesis and differentiation of cultures grown at 33 degrees C. The epidermis lacked a stratum granulosum and the stratum corneum contained a high number of nuclear remnants. The synthesis of the early specific protein differentiation markers (keratins 1 and 10) was suppressed on both the protein and mRNA levels without significant interference with the synthesis of late differentiation lipid markers, such as ceramides. From this observation it can be concluded that the synthesis of keratins associated with terminal differentiation is profoundly affected by the presence of EGF and is sensitive to temperature and that of ceramides is not. The finding that TGF alpha did not modulate the morphogenesis and synthesis of keratins 1 and 10 in cultures grown at 33 degrees C indicates possible differences between the postreceptor binding processes of these EGF receptor ligands.

Epidermal lipid metabolism of cultured skin substitutes during healing of full-thickness wounds in athymic mice.

Cultured epidermal keratinocytes provide an abundant supply of biologic material for wound treatment. Because restoration of barrier function is a definitive criterion for efficacy of wound closure and depends on the lipids present in the epidermis, we analyzed lipid composition of the epidermis in cultured skin substitutes in vitro and after grafting to athymic mice. The cultured skin substitutes were prepared from human keratinocytes and fibroblasts attached to collagen-glycosaminoglycan substrates. After 14 days of incubation, cultured skin substitutes were grafted orthotopically onto full-thickness wounds in athymic mice. Samples for lipid analysis were collected after 14 and 34 days of in vitro incubation, and 3 weeks and 4 months after grafting. Both in vitro samples show disproportions in epidermal lipid profile as compared with the native human epidermis, i.e., a low amount of phospholipids (indicating imbalance in proliferation and differentiation); a large excess of triglycerides (storage lipids); and low levels of free fatty acids, gluco-sphingolipids, cholesterol sulfate, and ceramides-suggesting abnormal composition of stratum corneum barrier lipids. Fatty acid analysis of cultured skin substitutes in vitro revealed insufficient uptake of linoleic acid, which resulted in increased synthesis of and substitution with monounsaturated fatty acids, mainly oleic acid. These abnormalities were partially corrected by 3 weeks after grafting; and 4 months after grafting, all epidermal lipids, with some minor exceptions, were synthesized in proportions very similar to human epidermis. Results of this study show that grafting of cultured skin substitutes to a physiologic host permits the recovery of lipid in proportion to that required for barrier formation in normal human epidermis.

Phase behavior of isolated skin lipids.

Ceramides were isolated from the pig stratum corneum (SC) and mixed in varying molar ratios with either cholesterol or with cholesterol and free fatty acids. The phase behavior of the mixtures was studied by small-(SAXD) and wide-angle (WAXD) X-ray diffraction. Ceramides alone did not exhibit a long range ordering. Upon addition of cholesterol to ceramides, lamellar phases were formed and a hexagonal lateral packing was detected similar to that seen in intact SC. At a cholesterol/ceramide molar ratio of 0.1, only one reflection at 5.9 nm was observed. At a cholesterol/ceramide molar ratio of 0.2, three reflections corresponding to 12.3, 5.56, and 4.26 nm appeared. The reflections were based on two phases. Increasing the cholesterol/ceramide ratio to 0.4, the peak positions were slightly shifted. The diffraction pattern revealed the presence of two lamellar phases with periodicities of 12.2 and 5.2 nm, respectively. The positions of the peaks remained unchanged when the cholesterol/ceramide ratio was increased up to 1.0. At a cholesterol/ceramide molar ratio of 2.0, the intensity of various peaks based on the 12.2 nm phase decreased in intensity. The phase behavior of the cholesterol/ceramide mixtures in a ratio between 0.4 and 1.0 was very similar to that found in intact pig SC in which two lamellar phases with periodicities of 6.0 and 13.2 nm are present. Our data further indicate that the formation of the 5.2 nm lamellar phase requires a higher cholesterol content than the formation of the 12.2 nm lamellar phase. Furthermore, when the relative amount of cholesterol is very high, the 5.2 nm phase is the most pronounced one. Addition of free fatty acids increased the solubility of cholesterol, indicating the role free fatty acids may play for the skin barrier function. The phase behavior of cholesterol/ceramide/fatty acid mixtures was found to be dependent on the chain length of fatty acids used. Namely, addition of short-chain free fatty acids (C14-C18) did not change the periodicity of the 12.2 and 5.2 nm phases, but induced the formation of an additional 4.2 nm phase. In the presence of long-chain free fatty acids (C16-C26), the periodicity of the lamellar phases was slightly increased (to 13.0 and 5.3 nm, respectively) but no additional 4.2 nm phase was formed. These results indicate that the lipid phase behavior of the cholesterol/ceramide/free fatty acid mixtures closely mimics that of the intact stratum corneum only in the presence of long-chain free fatty acids.

The role of ceramides 1 and 2 in the stratum corneum lipid organisation.

A mixture of ceramide 1 and ceramide 2 (CER(1 + 2)) was isolated from pig stratum corneum and mixed in various molar ratios with cholesterol (CHOL) or with CHOL and palmitic acid (PA). The mixtures were hydrated in a buffer solution of pH 5.0 and their phase behaviour was studied by wide- and small-angle X-ray diffraction. The small-angle diffraction curve of the CHOL/CER(1 + 2) mixture at a molar ratio of 0.4 revealed the presence of only one peak at a spacing of 6.7 nm. Increasing the amount of CHOL to a molar ratio of 0.6 was accompanied by a shift of this peak to a smaller spacing (5.7 nm) and the appearance of two weak peaks at 11.8 and 4.1 nm spacings. Increasing the CHOL content to an equimolar ratio resulted in the appearance of two lamellar phases with periodicities of 5.5 and 12 nm, respectively. In a CHOL/CER(1 + 2) mixture at a molar ratio of 2 the periodicities of the two phases were 5.6 and 12 nm, respectively. From these observations it was concluded that the CHOL/CER(1 + 2) mixtures exerted similar phase behaviour, as reported earlier for intact SC (Bouwstra et al. (1995) J. Lipid Res. 36, 496-504) and for mixtures (Bouwstra et al. (1996) J. Lipid Res., in press) prepared from CHOL and total ceramide fraction (CER) isolated from pig stratum corneum. However, in the CHOL/CER mixtures a lower relative amount of CHOL was required to acquire these lamellar phases, indicating that at low CHOL contents, CER 3, 4, 5 and 6 play a crucial role in the formation of the lamellar phases. Furthermore, the solubility of CHOL in the mixtures increased in the presence of CER 1, suggesting its important role for the barrier function of the skin. When palmitic acid (PA) was included, the phase behaviour of the CHOL/CER(1 + 2)/PA mixture was more complex. Next to two lamellar phases, an additional phase with a spacing of 3.77 nm was observed, never seen in intact stratum corneum. In the absence of CHOL, the wide-angle diffraction pattern of the CER(1 + 2) revealed one sharp reflection at 0.456 nm and two diffuse reflections at 0.430, 0.417 nm and 0.395 nm, indicating the presence of a crystalline sublattice. In an equimolar mixture of CHOL/CER(1 + 2) no sharp 0.456 nm reflection was observed indicating a more disordered packing. Furthermore, phase separation of CHOL occurred, this conclusion is based on the presence of reflections corresponding to polycrystalline cholesterol monohydrate. These findings indicate that the lateral packing of mixtures of CHOL/CER(1 + 2) is more complex than that of the CHOL/CER mixtures that reveals a hexagonal lateral packing.

Reduced skin barrier function parallels abnormal stratum corneum lipid organization in patients with lamellar ichthyosis.

Most patients with autosomal recessive lamellar ichthyosis are known to have markedly impaired skin barrier function. We hypothesize that this may be due to imperfections in the composition and fine structure of the intercellular stratum corneum lipids. The aim of the present study was to test this hypothesis. To characterize the barrier properties in three female patients with lamellar ichthyosis, the following parameters were used and compared with those of healthy volunteers: transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum lipid profiles after topical acetone/ether extraction on the flexure side of the forearm, and small-angle x-ray diffraction. The extracted lipids were separated using high performance thin-layer chromatography and quantified, and the ceramide profile was determined. Small-angle x-ray diffraction was used to obtain information on the molecular structure and organization of the intercellular lipid domains of stratum corneum using stratum corneum scales collected by scraping. Transepidermal water loss was significantly increased in all three patients. Lipid analysis showed significant differences in the relative amounts of ceramide fractions 2-3a-3b-4-5, free fatty acid-ceramide ratio, and free fatty acid-cholesterol ratio. Small-angle x-ray diffraction showed smaller repeated distances of lipid bilayers in stratum corneum samples of the patients compared with the healthy volunteers. An additional diffraction peak was found in the patients compared with the healthy volunteers, which can be ascribed to crystalline cholesterol. These data suggest that there might be a relation between the impaired barrier function and stratum corneum lipid structural and composition changes.

Characterization of stratum corneum structure in reconstructed epidermis by X-ray diffraction.

The intercellular lipid regions in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin, form the major barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. The barrier function of in vitro reconstructed epidermis is still impaired. With respect to further optimization of the model, it is necessary to characterize its stratum corneum lipid structure. In this study, small and wide angle X-ray diffraction were used to characterize the lipid organization in stratum corneum isolated from 14-day-old reconstructed epidermis. The measurements were carried out at room temperature, and subsequently as a function of temperature between 25 degrees C and 109 degrees C, followed by measurements after cooling to room temperature. The results of the X-ray diffraction measurements revealed the following in reconstructed epidermis. 1) The lamellar ordering of stratum corneum lipids was much lower than that observed in native stratum corneum. 2) Crystalline anhydrous cholesterol was present. 3) Orthorhombic packing was present, but the corresponding reflections were very weak. The orthorhombic packing disappeared between 30 degrees C and 45 degrees C. 4) A hexagonal packing was present and disappeared between 60 degrees C and 75 degrees C. 5) Soft keratin is present. 6) A higher extent of lamellar ordering could be achieved by heating to 109 degrees C and cooling down to room temperature. Analysis of SC lipids revealed the presence of high amounts of triglycerides, the level of which could be decreased by lowering the glucose content. However, modulation of culture medium composition did not significantly affect lipid lamellae structures or hydrocarbon chain packing.

Triglyceride metabolism in human keratinocytes cultured at the air-liquid interface.

Although epidermis reconstructed in vitro histologically demonstrates the presence of fully differentiated tissue with cornified strata, it does not synthesize or release epidermal barrier lipids in the same proportions as does native skin, causing the barrier function to be impaired. Lipids, the content of which deviates the most, include triglycerides that are present in high amounts and stored as lipid droplets. Our recent studies have revealed that a high triglyceride content may be a reflection of a high synthetic rate and a low turnover. Therefore, the present study was undertaken to examine whether the triglyceride accumulation in the air-exposed cultures may be a result of insufficient supplementation of cells with oxygen, an excessive supplementation of cells with glucose, dysregulation of lipogenesis, or an impaired catabolism of triglycerides caused either by insufficient activity of triglyceride lipase and/or accumulation of free fatty acids due to insufficient activity of beta-oxidase. When keratinocytes were cultured at the air-liquid interface in medium containing a standard glucose concentration, both the lactate and triglyceride production was high. Lowering glucose content in the medium resulted in a decrease in both lactate production and triglyceride synthesis. However, even when grown at a low glucose concentration the triglyceride content remained higher than found in vivo and synthesized triglycerides were stored in the cells as a stable pool, suggesting that the catabolism of triglycerides was impaired. Since both lipase and beta-oxidase were found to be active in cultured keratinocytes, another factor or other factors are probably implicated in the regulation of triglyceride metabolism.