The Influence of Short-Wave and Long-Wave Radiation Spectrum on the Photostability of Sunscreens.

BACKGROUND: Sunscreen products aim to help protect the skin against UV radiation and consequently reduce the risk of early skin ageing and skin cancer. However, it is well known that some sunscreen ingredients are not photostable, but this usually refers to irradiation with UV light. Moreover, it has to be mentioned that a relative cumulative erythema effectiveness compliant light source is used for the in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) testing. Here, UV simulators equipped with a xenon arc lamp use filters such as WG320 and UG11 (thickness 1 mm) to minimize infrared (IR) radiation and wavelength below 300 nm. However, under practical conditions, the sunscreen product is not only exposed to UVA/B light, but also to visible light (VIS) and IR light. In fact, the spectrum of solar radiation is composed of approximately 7% UV, 39% VIS and 54% IR. AIMS: To investigate the influence of short-wave and long-wave radiation on the photostability of sunscreens. METHODS: Irradiation was performed with the Suntest CPS+ that is considered to closely imitate solar radiation. The filter UG11 (thickness 1 mm), which absorbs much of the VIS and IR light, and the glass filter WG320 (thickness 2 mm), which effectively absorbs radiation of wavelengths less than 300 nm, were used in the Suntest CPS+ both individually and in combination and were inserted between the light source and the samples. The following transmission measurements were carried out with Labsphere's UV-2000s device. Here, the effectiveness (percentage change of SPF before irradiation to SPF after irradiation) as a measure of the photostability was calculated. RESULTS: As expected after total solar spectrum irradiation, the effectiveness in all tested sunscreens is lower compared to relative cumulative erythema effectiveness light used for in vitro testing of SPF. In the reference sunscreen formula S2 as well as in the two different sunscreen products, especially long-wave radiation (>400 nm) had an effect on photostability, whereas short-wave radiation had only a minor impact. In contrast, in the BASF sun care gel line only short-wave radiation below 300 nm had an effect on photostability, and blocking VIS and IR light had no effect at all. CONCLUSION: Based on these data, we can conclude that short waves and/or VIS + IR light have an influence on the photostability of sunscreens.

Determination of the Influence of the Antiphlogistic Ingredients Panthenol and Bisabolol on the SPF Value in vivo.

BACKGROUND: Today, the sun protection factor (SPF) value of sunscreen products is determined in vivo with a standardized protocol (EN ISO 24444:2010), and the measured SPF biological end point is the visible skin erythema. However, many of the sunscreen products currently available on the market have antiphlogistic ingredients, which may potentially result in an overestimated SPF of the sunscreen. AIMS: To investigate the potential influence of the antiphlogistic ingredients panthenol and bisabolol in sunscreens on the determined SPF value in vivo. METHODS: Formulations with different concentrations of the antiphlogistic ingredients bisabolol or panthenol were tested. As a reference, a base formulation (vehicle) without antiphlogistic ingredients was used. First, the SPF of the sunscreen formulas with and without antiphlogistic ingredients was analyzed in vitro. To investigate whether the antiphlogistic ingredient may suppress the inflammatory response to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, the SPF was determined in vivo. Finally, selected formulations were also analyzed in an erythema model for testing formulations on UV-induced inflammation. RESULTS: It could be confirmed that no differences between the formula with and that without the active antiphlogistic ingredients bisabolol or panthenol exist when measured in vitro. However, there was also no statistically significant difference in the erythemal response between the vehicle (without an antiphlogistic active ingredient) and the test formulations with different concentrations of the antiphlogistic active ingredients in the in vivo determination of the SPF. Evidence of anti-inflammatory activity of the sunscreen antiphlogistics bisabolol and panthenol was also not apparent in the UV model over a time course of 48 h. Conlusion: The antiphlogistic ingredients panthenol and bisabolol incorporated in the tested sunscreen formula do not interfere with erythema reddening and thus do not affect the SPF value in vivo.