Quantification of Lipid Phase Order of In Vivo Human Skin Using Attenuated Total Reflection Fourier Transform Infrared (ATR FT-IR) Spectroscopy and Multivariate Curve Resolution Analysis.

A new analysis methodology utilizing multivariate curve resolution (MCR) has been successfully combined with Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) measurement of in vivo human skin to resolve lipid phase constituents in the spectra relative to high and low chain ordering. A clinical study was performed to measure lipid order through different depths of stratum corneum of human subjects. Fourier transform IR spectra were collected through the top 10 layers of the skin on four sites on the left and right forearm of 12 individuals. Depth profiling was achieved by tape stripping to remove layers of skin with 10 successive tapes from each site. In vivo ATR FT-IR spectra were collected after removing each tape. Three isolated spectral regions were analyzed, centered around 2850 cm-1, 1460-1480 cm-1, and 730 cm-1, corresponding to stretching, scissoring, and rocking -CH2 vibrational modes, respectively. Both traditional lipid conformation analysis and MCR analysis were performed on the same spectral data. The lipid order ratio, expressed as the fraction of highly ordered orthorhombic (OR) lipids to the total lipids content (orthorhombic + hexagonal [HEX] + liquid crystal [LC]), was assessed as function of depth. Lipid order depth profiles (LODP) show an increase in order with the stratum corneum depth which can be adequately described by an exponential function for the data obtained in this study. The LODP derived from the three vibrational modes show very similar trends, although the absolute order ratios are somewhat different. The variance of the skin LODP across individuals is much greater than between sites within the same individual. The higher arm sites closer to the elbow on the left and right arm show no statistically significant difference and are recommended for use in comparative studies. The scissoring mode shows the highest sensitivity for determination of LODP value.

Effects of anionic surfactants on the water permeability of a model stratum corneum lipid membrane.

The stratum corneum (SC) is the ourtermost layer of the epidermis and has a brick-and-mortar-like structure, in which multilamellar lipid bilayers surround flattened dead cells known as corneocytes. The SC lipid membranes provide the main pathway for the transport of water and other substances through the SC. While the physicochemical properties of the SC can be affected by exogenous materials such as surfactants, little is known about how the water barrier function of the SC lipid membranes is compromised by common surfactants. Here, we study the effect of common anionic surfactants on the water permeability of a model SC lipid membrane using a quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation monitoring (QCM-D). Particularly, the effect of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) is compared. These two surfactants share commonality in their molecular structure: sulfate in the polar headgroup and the same apolar tail. The mass of the lipid membranes increases after the surfactant treatment at or above the critical micelle concentration (CMC) of the surfactants due to their absorption into the membranes. The incorporation of the surfactants into the lipid membranes is also accompanied by partial dissolution of the lipids from the model SC lipid membranes as confirmed by Fourier-transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy. Although the water sorption of pure SDS is much lower than that of pure SLES, the water sorption of SDS-treated membranes increases significantly similar to that of SLES-treated membranes. By combining QCM-D and FT-IR spectroscopy, we find that the chain conformational order and stiffness of the lipid membranes decrease after SDS treatment, resulting in the increased water sorption and diffusivity. In contrast, the conformational order and stiffness of the SLES-treated lipid membranes increase, suggesting that the increased water sorption capacity of SLES-treated lipid membranes is due to the hygroscopic nature of SLES.