Upper eyelid morphology and age-related changes in Japanese and Chinese females.

BACKGROUND: Many consumers use cosmetic eye products to counteract age-related changes in appearance. Measurements of eyelid shape in Asian women have been reported in the frontal view or 45-degree profile only. The aim of this study was to describe morphological characteristics of the upper eyelid in Japanese and Chinese females from the frontal and profile aspects and examine morphological changes with age. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Standardized digital photographs of 772 Japanese and 346 Chinese women (15-79 years of age) were acquired in frontal and 90-degree profile aspects. Eleven upper eyelid parameters (e.g., width, length, depth, aperture, and curvature) were measured using image analysis to determine age-related changes and compare by ethnicity. RESULTS: Eyelid width, area between eyebrow and eyelid, and eyelid curvature were comparable for both ethnicities under age 40, but the aging effect was more pronounced in Chinese subjects. Eyelid height, depth, and upper eyelid aperture angle were also comparable for both ethnicities under age 40, but the aging effect was more evident in Japanese subjects. Upper eyelid incline angle, eye orientation, and upper eyelid protrusion angle changed comparably with age for both ethnicities. No prominent age-related changes were evident for eyelid length or area between eyebrow and eye with the eye closed. CONCLUSION: Upper eyelid morphology changes with age in Japanese and Chinese females, starting around 40 years of age. Ethnic differences are limited in younger age groups but become more prominent with age. The findings suggest that aging affects some upper eyelid features earlier than others.

Video-based paired comparison to evaluate some cosmetic products under camera movement for dynamic performance.

OBJECTIVE: Until now, standardized evaluation of cosmetic effects was conducted mainly in still conditions such as pictures. In real life, the consumers' experience of their cosmetics' effects is dynamic and some of the benefits can be better observed under movement. In order to capture motion-related performance of cosmetics, we developed a video-based paired comparison on an online platform. METHODS: We validated this new tool through the evaluation of eyeshadow with high light reflection and colour gradation, especially visible under motion according to the observer point of view. This formula was compared with two marketed benchmarks. The three products were applied sequentially on the eyelid of eight Japanese women. Videos were taken in standardized light, speed and face position with a rotating camera around the face. The videos were uploaded on an online secured platform and eyelid 3D effect, highlight and colour gradation were evaluated through paired comparison test by 60 Japanese women from home on their PC or tablets. Those results were compared with picture-based paired comparison by the same observers. RESULTS: Video-based paired comparison provided higher discrimination of products compared to picture-based comparison. CONCLUSION: As compared to still camera acquisition, the evaluation of cosmetics based on videos is closer to real-life experience and can bring higher discrimination, especially for motion-related attributes.

OBJECTIF: Jusqu'à présent, l'évaluation standardisée des effets cosmétiques a été réalisée principalement dans des conditions immobiles telles que des photos. Dans la vie réelle, l'expérience des consommateurs des effets de leurs cosmétiques est dynamique, et certains des avantages peuvent être mieux observés en mouvement. Afin de saisir les performances des produits cosmétiques liées au mouvement, nous avons mis au point une comparaison par paires basée sur des vidéos sur une plateforme en ligne. MÉTHODES: Nous avons validé ce nouvel outil en évaluant un fard à paupières à forte réflexion lumineuse et à gradation de couleurs, particulièrement visible en mouvement selon le point de vue de l'observateur. Cette formule a été comparée à deux références commercialisées. Les trois produits ont été appliqués successivement sur la paupière de huit femmes japonaises. Les vidéos ont été prises dans des conditions de lumière, de vitesse et de position du visage normalisées, avec une caméra tournant autour du visage. Les vidéos ont été téléchargées sur une plateforme sécurisée en ligne, et l'effet 3D des paupières, l'accentuation et la gradation des couleurs ont été évalués au moyen d'un test de comparaison par paires par 60 femmes japonaises depuis leur domicile sur leur PC ou leur tablette. Ces résultats ont été mis en parallèle à une comparaison par paires sur photo par les mêmes observateurs. RÉSULTATS: La comparaison par paires sur vidéo a permis de mieux distinguer les produits par rapport à la comparaison sur photo. CONCLUSION: Par rapport à l'acquisition d'images fixes, l'évaluation des cosmétiques à partir de vidéos est plus proche de l'expérience réelle et peut permettre de mieux distinguer les produits, en particulier pour les attributs liés au mouvement.

A 5-hour follow-up of the impact on ageing facial signs of some foundations in Japanese women through automatically analysed selfie pictures.

OBJECTIVE: To explore the possibility of an automatic grading algorithm to detect and quantify, from selfie pictures, the subtle changes of facial signs brought by the application of a foundation. MATERIAL AND METHODS: A total of 270 Japanese differently aged women (30-54y) living in four different Japanese cities took selfies before, immediately and 5 h after having applied their own foundation, with their own routine. RESULTS: The analysis of 810 selfie pictures revealed (3 times × 270 women) that, prior to applications, all women presented a low grade of facial ageing. In most cases, the severities of less marked facial signs were detected and quantified, found affected by routine at different extents in all age-classes, but more intensely in the older age-class (45-54y) despite their more pronounced signs in bare skin status. In contrast, periorbital wrinkles were detected as more severe in all age-classes at both timing, that is, immediately and 5 h post-application as well as Nasolabial folds 5 h post-application. The amplitude of these positive or negative changes, although found of low amplitude, as decimals of the initial grades, was significantly detected. CONCLUSION: This automatic system appears apt at grading subtle changes in facial ageing signs brought by a foundation and could be a valuable help to the consumers of make-up products, in refining their individual procedure to obtain a more personalized desired facial appearance.

OBJECTIF: Explorer la possibilité pour un algorithme de scorage automatique des signes faciaux de détecter et quantifier sur la base de photographies 'selfies', les changements subtils apportés par l'application et la tenue de fonds de teint. MATÉRIEL ET MÉTHODES: 270 femmes japonaises âgées de 30 à 54 ans et vivant dans 4 villes différentes ont pris des selfies sur la base de leur smartphone avant, immédiatement et 5 heures après avoir appliqué leurs routines cosmétiques incluant leur propre fond de teint. RÉSULTATS: L'analyse des 810 selfies (3 temps×270 femmes) a révélé que, avant application, la plupart des femmes présentent des grades faibles de vieillissement facial. Dans la plupart des cas, les sévérités des signes les moins marqués, détectés et quantifiés, a été trouvée affectée à différents niveaux dans toutes les classes d'âge, mais plus intensément pour les volontaires les plus âgées (45 à 54 ans) en dépit de leurs valeurs plus élevées sur peau nue. A contrario, les rides péri-orbitales ont été mesurées comme plus sévères dans toutes les classes d'âge à tous les temps, c'est-à-dire immédiatement et 5 heures apprès application du fond de teint tandis que le sillon nasogénien a été observé comme plus sévère 5 heures après application. L'amplitude de ces changements positifs ou négatifs, bien que faible avec des valeurs décimales des grades initiaux, a été significativement détectée. CONCLUSIONS: Le système de scorage automatique apparaît capable d'évaluer des changements subtils dans les signes de vieillissement faciaux apportés par l'application de fonds de teint et se révèle une aide intéressante aux consommateurs de produits de maquillage pour affiner leurs routines individuelles afin d'obtenir des résultats plus personnalisés sur l'apparence désirée.

A preliminary study to understand the effects of mask on tinted face cosmetics.

BACKGROUND: The recent COVID-19 pandemic has generalized the use of face mask in public area, and it is now common to wear it for long hours. But face mask interfere with cosmetics, and key concerns for tinted products are staining of the mask and degradation on face. Consumers have modified beauty routine by a decrease of makeup, but are now expecting new products adapted to face mask. Little is known about the mechanisms that affect most the makeup under the face mask, so that further studies are needed to develop adequate evaluation methods and products. In this study, the color transfer on mask and makeup degradation on face are assessed through a mixed approach of consumer and instrumental evaluation. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Two tinted face products (A and B) were applied by half face on 11 Japanese women, who conducted real-life activities with a face mask during 4 hours. Panelists evaluated the stain of their face mask by visual assessment, while the makeup degradation on face was evaluated by color measurement by instrumental method. RESULTS: No difference was observed between the two products for lasting on face, but consumer evaluation showed a better resistance of product A for color transfer on mask. CONCLUSION: The mix of instrumental and consumer evaluation is a promising way to evaluate the makeup degradation on face and color transfer on mask, which are two key factors to develop mask resistant makeup products.

Japanese experiment of a complete and objective automatic grading system of facial signs from selfie pictures: Validation with dermatologists and characterization of changes due to age and sun exposures.

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the capacity of the automatic detection system to accurately grade, from smartphones' selfie pictures, the severity of ten facial signs in Japanese women and their changes due to age and sun exposures. METHODS: A three-step approach was conducted, based on self-taken selfie images. At first, to check on 310 Japanese women (18-69 years) enrolled in the northerner Hokkaido area (latitude 43.2°N), how, on ten facial signs, the A.I-based automatic grading system may correlate with dermatological assessments, taken as reference. Second, to assess and compare age changes in 310 Japanese and 112 Korean women. Third, as these Japanese panelists were recruited according to their usual behavior toward sun exposure, that is, non-sun-phobic (NSP, N = 114) and sun-phobic (SP, N = 196), and through their regular and early use of a photo-protective product, to characterize the facial photo-damages. RESULTS: (a) On the ten facial signs, detected automatically, nine were found significantly (P < .0001) highly correlated with the evaluations made by three Japanese dermatologists (Wrinkles: r = .75; Sagging: r = .80; Pigmentation: r = .75). (b) The automatic scores showed significant changes with age, by decade, of Wrinkles/Texture, Pigmentation, and Ptosis/Sagging (P < .05). (c) After 45 years, a significantly increased severity of Wrinkles/Texture and Pigmentation was observed in NSP vs. SP women (P < .05). A trend of an increased Ptosis/Sagging (P = .09) was observed. CONCLUSION: This work illustrates, for the first time through investigations conducted at home, some impacts of aging and sun exposures on facial signs of Japanese women. Results significantly confirm the importance of sun avoidance coupled with photo-protective measures. In epidemiological studies, the AI-based system offers a fast, affordable, and confidential approach in detection and quantification of facial signs and their dependence with ages, environments and lifestyles.

Determination of exposed sulfhydryl groups in heated beta-lactoglobulin A using IAEDANS and mass spectrometry.

This paper takes a new approach to determining which sulfhydryl groups are exposed during the heat denaturation of bovine beta-lactoglobulin A. The sulfhydryl groups exposed after heating were blocked with 5-((((2-iodoacetyl)amino)ethyl)amino)naphthalene-1-sulfonic acid (IAEDANS). The results show that IAEDANS is a suitable blocking agent, and its absorbance at 336 nm enabled the quantification of exposed sulfhydryl groups in a mixture of protein species by gel permeation chromatography. Combined with the specific fragmentation of bound IAEDANS by matrix-assisted laser desorption ionization (MALDI) MS/MS in negative ionization mode, this facilitated the identification of peptides that contained blocked cysteines after enzymatic digestion of the protein. During MALDI MS/MS of the peptides, in positive ionization mode, the IAEDANS molecule remained bound to the cysteines, making it possible to identify exactly which cysteine had been exposed after heating. In beta-lactoglobulin A it was found that cysteine 66 and cysteine 160 were predominantly exposed regardless of the length of exposure to heat.