Potentially beneficial effects of rhamnose on skin ageing: an in vitro and in vivo study.

OBJECTIVE: Recent findings showed that skin ageing preferentially affects human papillary dermal fibroblasts suggesting that the papillary dermis represents a critical zone altered by skin ageing. Based on these findings, we investigated the potential anti-ageing effect of rhamnose. METHODS: We investigated the potential anti-ageing effect of rhamnose using in vitro reconstructed skin containing fibroblasts obtained either from young or old donors, and in vivo clinical investigation. RESULTS: We detected positive effects of rhamnose in both epidermal and dermal compartments of in vitro reconstructed skin. Moreover, we were able to show that such in vitro findings were also obtained in vivo including an effect on collagen IV and procollagen I production. CONCLUSION: We provide evidence that rhamnose has a potentially beneficial effect on papillary dermis and dermal-epidermal junction, both of the areas which are affected by skin ageing.

OBJECTIF: Le vieillissement de la peau humaine affecte particulièrement les fibroblastes du derme papillaire suggérant que le derme papillaire représente une zone importante altérée par le vieillissement. A partir de ces résultats, nous avons étudié le potentiel effet anti-âge du rhamnose. METHODES: Le potentiel effet anti-âge du rhamnose a été étudié in vitro en utilisant un modèle de peau reconstruite contenant des fibroblastes isolés à partir d'un donneur jeune et d'un donneur âgé et dans une étude clinique in vivo. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons observé un effet positif du rhamnose dans le compartiment épidermique et dermique de la peau reconstruite in vitro. En outre, nous avons pu montrer in vivo comme in vitro, un effet sur la production du collagène IV et du procollagène I. CONCLUSION: Le rhamnose a un effet bénéfique potentiel sur deux zones touchées par le vieillissement cutané, le derme papillaire et la jonction dermo-épidermique.

Glycation stimulates cutaneous monocyte differentiation in reconstructed skin in vitro.

Glycation reaction is a recognized mechanism related to chronological aging. Previous investigations in cutaneous biology have considered the effect of glycation on the dermal matrix molecules, involved in tissue stiffening during skin aging. However, little is known about a possible direct effect of glycation upon cell differentiation. To address such issue, the effect of glycation has been re-investigated in a reconstructed skin model integrating monocytes that are cells capable of differentiating according to different pathways. The results showed that, in the absence of glycation, a small number of these CD45+ cells could differentiate either into dendritic-like cells (DC-SIGN+, BDC1a+, DC-LAMP+) or macrophage- like cells (CD14+, CD68+, CD163+) whereas, with glycation, the number of monocytes, dendritic cells, macrophage-like cells were found surprisingly increased. In-vivo our results showed also that dendritic and macrophage-like cells were increased and suggest a possible link with the age-dependent glycation level in the skin. In addition, we found that, unlike fibroblasts incorporated in the reconstructed skin, these cells expressed specific receptors for AGEs (RAGE and SRA). Taken altogether, our data show that cells of the monocyte lineage, in the presence of AGEs, can differentiate into dendritic or macrophage-like cells and could lead to a micro inflammatory environment.

A broad-spectrum sunscreen prevents cumulative damage from repeated exposure to sub-erythemal solar ultraviolet radiation representative of temperate latitudes.

BACKGROUND: We have previously shown the detrimental effects of 19 sub-erythemal exposures to daily ultraviolet radiation (DUVR, which mimics non-extreme exposure conditions), delivered over 4 weeks to volunteers. This source had UVA (320-400 nm) to UVB (290-320 nm) irradiance ratio of 25, instead of that close to 10 that is typically the case with solar-simulated radiation (SSR) that represents summer global sunlight with a clear sky and quasi-zenith solar irradiance. OBJECTIVE: Here, we report on an extension of this previous study, in which we evaluated the photoprotection afforded by a broad-spectrum daily-care product with a low-sun protection factor (SPF 8, UVA-PF 7 and 3* rated UVA protection). We assessed cellular and molecular markers of photodamage that are relevant to skin cancer and photoageing. RESULTS: This study shows that biological effects of repeated exposure to DUVR can be prevented by a broad-spectrum daily-care product and that the level of protection afforded varies with the studied endpoint. CONCLUSION: Efficient daily UVR protection, as provided by a broad-spectrum daily-care product, is necessary to prevent the 'silent' sub-erythemal cumulative effects of UVR from inadvertent sun exposure.

Elastin changes during chronological and photo-ageing: the important role of lysozyme.

Cutaneous ageing, as a result of combined chronological and photo-ageing in sun-exposed areas, is accompanied by major modifications of the elastic fibres. We aimed to investigate qualitative and quantitative changes of dermal elastin fibres during cutaneous chronological and photo-ageing and the involvement of lysozyme in these processes. Morphological, age-related changes and variations in the relative elastin content in sun-protected (buttock) and sun-exposed (forearm and face) skin of healthy volunteers were studied (145 samples). The deposition of lysozyme in elastin fibres was studied using light and immuno-electron microscopy and taking into consideration the relative efficacy of different UV wavebands (UVA or SSR (solar simulated radiation)). Our studies also included the proteolytic degradation of elastin by human leucocyte elastase (HLE) in situ. Our results indicate a reduction of elastin content with age in sun-protected and sun-exposed skin, associated for the latter with high elastin content, resulting in elastosis. Total UVA (320-400 nm), and in particular long wave UVA (UVA-1, 340-400 nm), induces lysozyme deposition in elastin fibres to a higher extent than solar simulated radiation (SSR, 280-400 nm). Immuno-electron microscopy revealed lysozyme association with the electron-dense granular amorphous elastin structures, corresponding to a basophilic degeneration induced by sun exposure. Lysozyme has no elastolytic activity in situ; however, its binding to elastin limits elastin degradation by human leucocyte elastase (HLE). In addition, a direct inhibitory effect of lysozyme on HLE was observed. Our data suggest that lysozyme prevents elastin degradation by HLE after binding to the damaged parts of the elastin network and by direct lysozyme-HLE interaction, which reduces HLE proteolytic activity. These observations contribute to a better understanding of the chronological and photo-induced changes of the dermal elastic network.

Histological evaluation of a topically applied retinol-vitamin C combination.

Two double-blind studies versus vehicle were carried out to investigate the effects of a topically applied retinol plus vitamin C combination on epidermal and dermal compartments of aged or photoaged human skin. The two studies were performed on postmenopausal women who were selected for treatment based on the mild level of elastosis of their facial skin. At completion of treatment, skin biopsies were collected and processed for classical histology and immunohistochemistry. In the first study (aged skin), 8 volunteers applied the retinol- and vitamin C-containing preparation on the ventral side of one elbow and the vehicle on the other elbow twice daily for 3 months. After the 3-month treatment we observed histological changes mainly within the epidermis. The stratum corneum was thinner with a compact pattern, whereas the epidermal proliferation increased, resulting in a thickening of the viable epidermis. Moreover, the interdigitation index was increased. In the second study (photoaged skin), 11 volunteers were divided in two groups; one applied the retinol- and vitamin C-containing preparation and the other one the vehicle on their face twice daily for 6 months. Facial skin samples presented histologic hallmarks of photoaging, i.e. accumulation of elastotic material in the papillary dermis. After the 6-month topical treatment, the observed histological changes were mainly concentrated at the dermal level. Both treated and control groups showed the same distribution pattern of type I procollagen, however, the high level of type III procollagen originally observed in photoaged skin was reduced in the retinol- and vitamin C-treated group, resulting in a lower type III-to-type I procollagen ratio. Furthermore, a wide band of eosinophilic material just beneath the epidermis, devoid of oxytalan fibers and forming the 'grenz zone', appeared more frequently and was larger in the retinol- and vitamin C-treated group. In conclusion, our results show that repeated topical application of a preparation containing both retinol and vitamin C is able to reverse, at least in part, skin changes induced by both chronologic aging and photoaging.

Alterations in human epidermal Langerhans cells by ultraviolet radiation: quantitative and morphological study.

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet (UV) exposure of human skin induces local and systemic immune suppression. This phenomenon has been well documented when UVB radiation (290-320 nm) is used. The mechanism is thought to involve Langerhans cells (LCs), the epidermal dendritic cells that play a crucial role in antigen presentation. A variety of studies have clearly demonstrated that UVB radiation decreases LC density and alters their morphology and immunological function, but little is known about the effects of the entire UV spectrum (ultraviolet solar simulated radiation, UV-SSR or UVB + UVA) or UVA (320-400 nm) radiation alone. OBJECTIVES: The purpose of this study was to analyse and compare the effects of a single exposure of human volunteers to UV-SSR, total UVA or UVA1 (340-400 nm) in the human epidermal LC density and morphology. METHODS: Immunohistochemistry on epidermal sheets with various antibodies and transmission electron microscopy (TEM) were used. RESULTS: Immunostaining for class II antigen revealed that a single UV-SSR exposure, corresponding to twice the minimal erythemal dose (MED), induced a significant reduction in LC density with only slight morphological alterations of remaining cells. After a single UVA exposure, LC density showed a dose-dependent reduction with a significant effect at 60 J cm(-2) (well above the MED). Moreover, the reduction of LC dendricity was also dose-dependent and significant for doses exceeding 30 J cm(-2). UVA1 radiation was as effective as total UVA for the later endpoint. As demonstrated by TEM, the location of Birbeck granules containing epidermal cells was modified in UVA-exposed areas. They were located in the spinous rather than in the suprabasal layer. In addition, the morphology of these cells was altered. We observed a rounding up of the cell body with a reduction of dendricity. Alterations of mitochondrial membrane and ridges were also seen. CONCLUSIONS: A single exposure of human skin in vivo to UV-SSR, UVA or UVA1 radiation results in different alterations of density and/or morphology of LCs. All these alterations may impair the antigen-presenting function of LCs leading to an alteration of immune response.