Antioxidant, antimicrobial and healing properties of an extract from coffee pulp for the development of a phytocosmetic.

Consumer demand for natural, chemical-free products has grown. Food industry residues, like coffee pulp, rich in caffeine, chlorogenic acid and phenolic compounds, offer potential for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties. Therefore, the objective of this work was to develop a phytocosmetic only with natural products containing coffee pulp extract as active pharmaceutical ingredient with antioxidant, antimicrobial and healing activity. Eight samples from Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora Pierre were analyzed for caffeine, chlorogenic acid, phenolic compounds, tannins, flavonoids, cytotoxicity, antibacterial activity, and healing potential. The Robusta IAC-extract had the greatest prominence with 192.92 µg/mL of chlorogenic acid, 58.98 ± 2.88 mg GAE/g sample in the FRAP test, 79.53 ± 5.61 mg GAE/g sample in the test of total phenolics, was not cytotoxic, and MIC 3 mg/mL against Staphylococcus aureus. This extract was incorporated into a stable formulation and preferred by 88% of volunteers. At last, a scratch assay exhibited the formulation promoted cell migration after 24 h, therefore, increased scratch retraction. In this way, it was possible to develop a phytocosmetic with the coffee pulp that showed desirable antioxidant, antimicrobial and healing properties.

Influence of solvent selection and extraction methods on the determination of polyphenols, antioxidant, lipoxygenase and tyrosinase inhibition activities of Opuntia ficus-indica fruits peel and pulp collected from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA).

The effect of extracting solvents used by two methods on the TPC, TFC, antioxidant as well as lipoxygenase, and tyrosinase inhibition activities of O. ficus-indica fruit (peel and pulp) were studied. The results manifest that extracts with solvent polarities showed different levels of polyphenols contents and antioxidant activities. The extracts acquired by the Soxhlet method were the most fascinating. Interestingly, peel extracts contain more polyphenols than pulp and showed activities. Lipoxygenase and tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the fruit peel and pulp extracts was reported for the first time. The promising results obtained prompted to the formulation of a stable phytocosmetic emulsion system loaded with 1% pre-concentrated peel extract, aiming to revive facial skin properties. The efficacy of the formulations was determined through SPF and UVA protection factors. To the in vitro safety assessment CAM-TBS, HET-CAM, and red blood cell tests were achieved. Importantly, the formulation did not induce any toxicity.

Phytocosmetic Containing Pink Pepper Extracts Obtained by Sustainable Extraction.

Pink pepper (Schinus terebinthifolius Raddi) has high potential for commercial use because of its biological activities (anti-inflammatory, antitumor, and antioxidant activities, among others). Herein, the antioxidant activity of a topical formulation containing pink pepper extract obtained by supercritical carbon dioxide extraction is reported. The effects of extraction pressure (100-300 bar) and temperature (40-60 °C) on its antioxidant activity were investigated. The extracts obtained at 50-60 °C showed a higher inhibition percentage in the α,α-diphenyl-ß-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay (80.16-91.27 %), regardless of pressure. The extract obtained under optimized conditions (200 bar and 50 °C) was incorporated into an oil-in-water emulsion containing 2 % (m/m) pink pepper extract. The product presented a creamy texture, light rose color, mild spicy odor, and desirable pH for a topical formulation. Furthermore, the product was stable and remained effective when stored and protected from heat and light, showing 35.38 % inhibition of DPPH.

Flavonoid-Enriched Plant-Extract-Loaded Emulsion: A Novel Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Formulation with Antioxidant Properties.

The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid-enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5 C), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 ± 0.39 µg/mL and 30.39 ± 0.39 µg/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo-plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by Ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 ± 1.92 µg/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 ± 8.70 µg/mL). The developed flavonoid-enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non-irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application.

Phytocosmeceutical formulation development, characterization and its in-vivo investigations.

Several plants found rich in flavonoid, polyphenols, and antioxidants reported antiaging, oppose inflammation and carcinogenic properties but have rarely been applied in dermatology. The present study was an active attempt to formulate a stable phytocosmetic emulsion system loaded with 2% pre-concentrated Prosopis cineraria bark extract, aiming to revive facial skin properties. In order to obtain potent therapeutic activities, we first prepared extracts of stem, leaves, and bark and screen them on basis of phenolic, flavonoids contents and antioxidant, antibacterial, lipoxygenase and tyrosinase inhibition activities. Furthermore, cytocompatibility of the extract was also determined prior starting in vivo investigations. Then the in vivo performance of 2% bark extract loaded emulsion formulation was determined by using non-invasive probe cutometer and elastometer with comparison to base formulation. The preliminary experiment showed that bark extract has a significant amount of phenolic and flavonoid compounds with eminent antioxidant potential. Furthermore, indicated an efficient antibacterial, lipoxygenase, and tyrosinase enzyme inhibition activities. Importantly, the bark extract did not induce any toxicity or apoptosis, when incubated with HaCat cells. Moreover, the in vivo results showed the formulation (size 3 µm) decreased the skin melanin, erythema and sebum contents up to 2.1-,2.7-and 79%, while increased the skin hydration and elasticity up to 2-folds and 22% as compared to the base, respectively. Owing to enhanced therapeutic effects the phytocosmetic formulation proved to be a potential skin whitening, moisturizer, anti-acne, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging therapy and could actively induce skin rejuvenation and resurfacing.

A quantitative ethnobotanical survey of phytocosmetics used in the tropical island of Mauritius.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: With a net turnover worth of £181 billion, the cosmetic industry is a leading worldwide business with a very lucrative future. Nonetheless, due to recent concerns regarding toxicity of synthetic cosmetics, herbal products have come into the limelight of cosmetology. The tropical island of Mauritius has a well-anchored diversity of indigenous plant species which are exploited for various purposes but no study has been designed to (i) quantitatively document, (ii) assess the effectiveness, and (iii) study the incidence of adverse effects and perception associated with the use of herbal products for cosmetic applications. METHOD: Data was collected from herbal users via face-to-face interviews using semi-structured questionnaire. Quantitative ethnobotanical indices (fidelity level (FL), variety of use (VU) and relative frequency of citation (RFC)) were calculated. RESULTS: Twenty five herbs belonging to 21 families were recorded in use for 29 different cosmetics applications. Many of the documented species represented well-known plants, although we also recorded a few plants being exploited for new cosmetic applications. Plants with the highest RFC were Curcuma longa L. (0.45), Lawsonia inermis L. (0.42) and Aloe vera (L.) Burm.f. (0.42). A total of 8 plants were reported to score 100% with respect to the FL. Interestingly, Lawsonia inermis L. being the highly cited plant species showed a clear dominance as a popular phytocosmetic and which has also been extensively documented for its pharmacological properties. Moreover, it was found that 25% of the respondents experienced adverse effects; with pruritus (11%) being the most reported condition. It was also observed that participants perceived herbs/herbal products to be free from adverse effects. CONCLUSION: Most of the plants reported have been described in previous studies for their bioactive components which tend to justify their use as phytocosmetics. Further research should be geared to explore the potential of these plant products for the cosmetic industry.

Mercado de bioprodutos fitoterápicos e fitocosméticos: gestão, tecnologias e inovação / Phytotherapy and phytocosmetic bioproducts market: management, technologies and innovation

Este trabalho aborda o mercado de bioprodutos em Manaus (AM), as potencialidades tecnológicas de inovação e uso da gestão em cadeias produtivas, cuja base é a biodiversidade. O objetivo principal é identificar como o uso de técnicas e tecnologias, somadas aos processos de inovação e gestão, interatua no mercado de fitoterápicos e fitocosméticos em Manaus (AM) a partir de uma discussão teórica. O trabalho foi desenvolvido com uso de bibliografia especializada entre 2009 e 2015. Os termos gestão e inovação foram utilizados como aporte teórico e metodológico de identificação de fatos e processos, para analisarmos como ocorre a dinâmica de mercados específicos. O conceito de inovação, neste trabalho, identifica a potencialidade de como os processos de gestão podem impactar na biodiversidade e na sociedade. A gestão e a inovação são produzidas tendo o mercado como espaço de existência, o que permite manter os laços de comércio, reprodução de processos de criação e de novas tecnologias em suas especificidades, que podem se difundir ou não. As técnicas e tecnologias como elementos de inovação e gestão são fundamentais para o desenvolvimento do mercado, contraditoriamente elas são, também, uma das principais dificuldades de implementação.(AU)

This paper deals with the market of bioproducts in Manaus (AM) and technological potentiality of innovation and use of management in production chains whose base is biodiversity. The main objective of this work is to identify how the use of techniques and technologies combined with innovation processes and management interact in phytotherapy and phytocosmetics market in Manaus (AM) from a theoretical discussion. The work was developed using specialized literature between 2009 and 2015. The terms management and innovation were used as theoretical and methodological contributions of identification of facts and processes to analyze how the dynamics of specific markets occurs; the concept of innovation in this paper identifies the potential of how management processes can influence biodiversity and society. The management and innovation are produced with the market as space of existence, which allows maintaining trade ties and reproduction processes of creation and new technologies in specificities, which may be broadcast or not. The techniques and technologies as elements of innovation and management are critical to market development; contradictorily they are one of the main difficulties of implementation.(AU)

Controle de qualidade e análise sensorial em voluntários de xampu esfoliante com extrato hidroalcoólico de Capsicum frutescens L. (Solanaceae) / Quality control and sensory acceptability of exfoliating shampoo containing hydroethanolic extract of Capsicum frutescens L. (Solanaceae) peppers.

A fitocosmética é um setor em nítido crescimento por se ter verificado reais vantagens na incorporação de produtos vegetais em relação a certos produtos sintéticos em produtos cosméticos. O proposto trabalho foi desenvolvido enfocando-se o uso de xampu com a utilização de microesferas de biopolímero e extrato hidroalcoólico de Capsicum frutescens L., mais popularmente conhecida como pimenta-malagueta, para o tratamento de queda capilar simples (alopecia androgênica). As análises físico-químicas envolveram determinação de cinzas totais, pH, identificação de capsaicina e densidade do xampu, entre outros. Considerando-se os diversos aspectos exigidos para a garantia da qualidade do material botânico, que englobam não somente os aspectos físico-químicos, mas também o microbiológico, realizou-se, tanto no extrato quanto no produto final, a contagem total de micro-organismos, pesquisa de Salmonella sp e Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus e Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Foram realizadas análises sensoriais em voluntários, visando avaliar a qualidade sensorial do produto. Os voluntários avaliaram a amostra segundo questionário aplicado. Para as propriedades avaliadas, as microesferas esfoliantes incorporadas ao xampu mostraram-se ser bem aceitas pelos voluntários, principalmente devido à sensação transmitida pela esfoliação, fazendo com que o extrato hidroalcoólico promova uma maior oxigenação local.

Phytocosmetics is a sector of the market in rapid growth, since real advantages have been demonstrated in the incorporation of plant products in cosmetics, in place of certain synthetic products. The focus of this study was on the use of shampoo containing microspheres of biopolymer and a hydroalcoholic extract of the fruit of Capsicum frutescens L., more commonly known as chili pepper, for the treatment of hair loss (androgenic alopecia). The physical and chemical analysis included the determination of total ash, pH and density of the shampoo and the identification of capsaicin. Considering the various requirements for quality assurance of the plant material, encompassing not only physicochemical but also microbiological criteria, both the extract and the final product were subjected to a total count of microorganisms and tests for Salmonella sp, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. The sensory quality of the product was assessed by a panel of volunteers, who rated the sample of shampoo in response to a questionnaire. For the properties assessed, the exfoliating microspheres incorporated into the shampoo proved to be well tolerated by the volunteers, mainly on account of the feeling conveyed by exfoliation, causing the hydroalcoholic extract to promote greater local oxygenation.

Estudo fitoquímico de goiaba (Psidium guajava L. ) com potencial antioxidante para o desenvolvimento de formulação fitocosmética / Phytochemical study of guava (Psidium guajava L. ) with potential antioxidant activity aiming at developing a phytocosmetic formulation

Considerando-se a qualidade dos fitoterápicos, é importante salientar que a preocupação com esta questão inclui rigoroso acompanhamento das diferentes etapas do desenvolvimento e produção destes produtos, desde a coleta do vegetal até a disponibilidade do produto final. Neste trabalho, foram realizados o controle da qualidade, o potencial antioxidante como também ensaios biológicos in vitro do fruto da goiabeira (Psidium guajava L.), para o desenvolvimento de uma formulação fitocosmética. Os resultados obtidos mostraram que o fruto apresenta taninos e flavonóides, bem como atividades antioxidante e antimicrobiana. A análise microbiológica não apresentou crescimento de patógenos na formulação desenvolvida entre os outros testes realizados. Destaca-se a importância do estabelecimento do controle da qualidade para as plantas, a fim de que sejam utilizadas para o desenvolvimento de uma formulação fitocosmética segura, eficaz e com qualidade.

Considering the quality of the phytotherapic products, it is important to point out that the concern with this question includes rigorous accompaniment of the different stages of the development and production of these products, since the collection of the vegetable until the availability of the end product. In this work the quality control, the antioxidant potential were performed as also biological assays in vitro of guava fruit (P. guajava L.), for the development of a phytocosmetic formulation. The results had shown that the fruit presents tannins and flavonoids, as well as antioxidant and antimicrobial activities. The microbiological analysis did not present growth of pathogens. The importance of the establishment of the quality control for the plants is relevant, so that they are used for the development of a phytocosmetic formulation considered safe, efficient and with quality.