Promising Anti-Wrinkle Applications of Aromatic Extracts of Hedychium coronarium J. Koenig via Antioxidation and Collagenase Inhibition.

This study aimed to extract aromatic compounds from the rhizomes, leaf sheaths, and leaves of Hedychium coronarium and investigate their chemical compositions, cosmetic/cosmeceutical activities, and irritation potency. The chemical compositions were investigated via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities were evaluated via spectrophotometry. The anti-skin wrinkle properties were investigated via collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition. The irritation potency was observed via a hen's egg-chorioallantoic membrane test. Eucalyptol was detected as a major component in the rhizomes and leaf sheaths, while ß-caryophyllene was predominant in the leaves. The absolutes from the rhizomes were the strongest antioxidants, with ABTS scavenging properties similar to L-ascorbic acid. Interestingly, the equivalent concentration (EC1) of the absolute from the rhizome was 0.82 ± 0.01 µg FeSO4/g extract, which was significantly more potent than L-ascorbic acid (0.43 ± 0.03 µg FeSO4/g extract). The rhizome-derived absolute was the most effective against collagenase, while the concretes from the rhizomes and leaf sheaths showed promising anti-hyaluronidase activity with inhibitions of 90.5 ± 1.6% and 87.4 ± 5.1%, respectively. The irritability of the aromatic extracts was not different from that of the vehicle control, proving their safety. Therefore, the Hedychium coronarium rhizome-derived absolute was an attractive and potent antioxidant with anti-collagenase activities, indicating its potential for use in anti-aging formulations.

A novel optical coherence tomography-based in vitro method of anti-aging skin analysis using 3D skin wrinkle mimics.

BACKGROUND: Wrinkles represent a characteristic symptom of skin aging. In recent years, various studies have focused on their prevention and/or cure. However, clinical tests are still the only method available to directly detect and evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of various substances. Moreover, no in vitro strategy for such anti-aging skin analysis has been reported. Therefore, in this study, we aimed to develop a novel technology to overcome these limitations. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Full-thickness (FT) skin wrinkle mimics with various widths and depths were fabricated using a collagen stamping method. These were analyzed and compared using 2D and 3D Swept Source-Optical Coherence Tomography (SS-OCT) imaging technologies. RESULTS: SS-OCT demonstrated superficial and cross-sectional images of the wrinkle mimics, and the size of the wrinkles was validated using image analysis. Retinoic acid treatment significantly decreased both the depth and width of wrinkles formed in the FT skin wrinkle mimics. CONCLUSIONS: Using 3D tissue engineering and SS-OCT imaging technologies, we developed a novel in vitro technique that can directly detect skin wrinkles. This significantly efficient method could lead to an alternative strategy for animal experiments and preclinical anti-aging research on the skin.

The Safety and Efficacy of 1-Monoeicosapentaenoin Isolated from the Trebouxiophyceae Micractinium on Anti-Wrinkle: A Split-Face Randomized, Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study.

The skin aging process is governed by intrinsic and extrinsic factors causing skin wrinkles, sagging, and loosening. The 1-monoeicosapentaenoin (1-MEST) is a component isolated from Micractinium, a genus of microalgae (Chlorophyta, Trebouxiophyceae). However, the anti-wrinkle effects of 1-MEST are not yet known. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-wrinkle effects of 1-MEST in vitro and in clinical trials. The cytotoxicity of 1-MEST was investigated in vitro using the MTS assay in human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs). Expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and MMP-9 was determined by ELISA in HEKs irradiated with UVB after treatment with 1-MEST. A split-face randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was conducted to evaluate the safety and efficacy of 1-MEST. The study evaluated wrinkle parameters and visual assessment, self-efficacy and usability questionnaires, and adverse events. The study showed that the 1-MEST was not cytotoxic in HEKs, suppressed MMP-1 secretion and MMP-9 protein expression in HEKs irradiated with UVB. The wrinkle parameters and mean visual assessment score were significantly decreased in the test group after 12 weeks and differed from the control group. There were no significant differences in efficacy and usability. Adverse effects were also not observed. The 1-MEST showed anti-wrinkle properties to slow down or prevent skin aging.

Effect of Cirsium japonicum Flower Extract on Skin Aging Induced by Glycation.

Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) have recently been increasingly discussed as one factor of skin aging. In this study, we investigated the effects of Cirsium japonicum flower (CFE) extract on glycation in relation to skin aging and skin elasticity. Moreover, we learned the main active constituent of CFE that has effects against glycation. To demonstrate the effects of CFE on glycation, we carried out an in vitro glycation study, 3-dimensional culture, and clinical study. As a result, CFE inhibited formation of AGEs in both bovine serum albumin (BSA)/glucose glycation system and aldehyde-derived glycation system. Moreover, CFE reduced Nε-(carboxymethyl), lysine (CML), and carbonylated proteins that increased by glycation. Furthermore, CFE broke crosslinks of collagen-AGEs and inhibited the increase of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) gene expression by AGEs. In the 3D culture condition, CFE restored the reduction of collagen gel contraction by glycation. Moreover, apigenin was detected as the main active constituent in CFE that has anti-glycation effects. In the clinical study, we confirmed that CFE has effects on skin wrinkles and skin elasticity. Our findings suggest that CFE can be used as a cosmetic or cosmeceutical ingredient for improving skin elasticity and wrinkles. Regulation of AGEs can be an interesting target for anti-aging.

Comparison of chemical profiles, antioxidation, inhibition of skin extracellular matrix degradation, and anti-tyrosinase activity between mycelium and fruiting body of Cordyceps militaris and Isaria tenuipes.

CONTEXT: Cordyceps militaris and Isaria tenuipes (Cordycipitaceae) are high-value fungi that are used for health-promoting food supplements. Since laboratory cultivation has begun for these fungi, increased output has been achieved. OBJECTIVE: This study compared the chemical profiles, antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and skin extracellular matrix degradation inhibition between mycelium and fruiting body of C. militaris and I. tenuipes. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The antioxidative potential of 10% v/v aqueous infused extract from each fungus was separately investigated using 2,2-azinobis(3-ethylbenzo-thiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS), 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), ferric reducing antioxidant ability, and ferric thiocyanate methods. The inhibition against MMP-1, elastase, and hyaluronidase were determined to reveal their anti-wrinkle potential. Anti-tyrosinase activities were determined. RESULTS: C. militaris and I. tenuipes extracts were found to contain a wide range of bioactive compounds, including phenolics, flavonoids, and adenosine. A correlation was discovered between the chemical compositions and their biological activities. The extract from I. tenuipes fruiting body (IF) was highlighted as an extraordinary elastase inhibitor (IC50 = 0.006 ± 0.004 mg/mL), hyaluronidase inhibitor (IC50: 30.3 ± 3.2 mg/mL), and antioxidant via radical scavenging (ABTS IC50: 0.22 ± 0.02 mg/mL; DPPH IC50: 0.05 ± 0.02 mg/mL), thereby reducing ability (EC1: 95.3 ± 4.8 mM FeSO4/g extract) and lipid peroxidation prevention (IC50: 0.40 ± 0.11 mg/mL). IF had a three-times higher EC1 value than ascorbic acid and significantly higher elastase inhibition than epigallocatechin gallate. DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSIONS: IF is proposed as a powerful natural extract with antioxidant and anti-wrinkle properties; therefore, it is suggested for further use in pharmaceutical, cosmeceutical, and nutraceutical industries.

Ethanol Extract of Yak-Kong Fermented by Lactic Acid Bacteria from a Korean Infant Markedly Reduces Matrix Metallopreteinase-1 Expression Induced by Solar Ultraviolet Irradiation in Human Keratinocytes and a 3D Skin Model.

Yak-Kong is a type of black soybean that is colloquially referred to as the "medicinal bean" and it elicits several beneficial effects that are relevant to human health, including attenuating the formation of skin wrinkles. It has previously been shown that soybean extracts elicit additional bioactivity that is fermented by lactic acid bacteria. In this study of lactic acid bacteria strains that were isolated from the stools of breast-feeding infants (<100 days old), we selected Bifidobacterium animalis subsp. Lactis LDTM 8102 (LDTM 8102) as the lead strain for the fermentation of Yak-Kong. We investigated the effects of LDTM 8102-fermented Yak-Kong on solar-ultraviolet irradiation (sUV)-induced wrinkle formation. In HaCaT cells, the ethanol extract of LDTM 8102-fermented Yak-Kong (EFY) effectively reduced sUV-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) secretion. The effect of EFY was superior to that of unfermented (UFY)- and Lactis KCTC 5854 (another Bifidobacterium animalis species)-fermented Yak-Kong. Additionally, EFY reduced sUV-induced MMP-1 mRNA expression and promoter activity, as well as the transactivation of AP-1 and phosphorylation of ERK1/2 and JNK1/2. Furthermore, EFY alleviated sUV-induced MMP-1 secretion, the destruction of the epidermis, and degradation of collagen in a three-dimensional (3D) skin culture model. EFY had a higher total polyphenol content and anti-oxidative activity than UFY. Twelve metabolites were significantly (≥2-fold) increased in Yak-Kong extract after fermentation by LDTM 8102. Among them, the metabolites of major isoflavones, such as 6,7,4'-trihydroxyisoflavone (THIF), exerted the reducing effect of MMP-1, which indicated that the isoflavone metabolites contributed to the effect of EFY on MMP-1 expression as active compounds. These findings suggest that EFY is a potent natural material that can potentially prevent sUV-induced wrinkle formation.

Oral Intake of Hydrangea serrata (Thunb.) Ser. Leaves Extract Improves Wrinkles, Hydration, Elasticity, Texture, and Roughness in Human Skin: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study.

Previously, we reported that the hot water extract of Hydrangea serrata leaves (WHS) and its active component, hydrangenol, possess in vitro and in vivo effects on skin wrinkles and moisturization. We conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to clinically evaluate the effect of WHS on human skin. Participants (n = 151) were randomly assigned to receive either WHS 300 mg, WHS 600 mg, or placebo, once daily for 12 weeks. Skin wrinkle, hydration, elasticity, texture, and roughness parameters were assessed at baseline and after 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Compared to the placebo, skin wrinkles were significantly reduced in both WHS groups after 8 and 12 weeks. In both WHS groups, five parameters (R1-R5) of skin wrinkles significantly improved and skin hydration was significantly enhanced when compared to the placebo group after 12 weeks. Compared with the placebo, three parameters of skin elasticity, including overall elasticity (R2), net elasticity (R5), and ratio of elastic recovery to total deformation (R7), improved after 12 weeks of oral WHS (600 mg) administration. Changes in skin texture and roughness were significantly reduced in both WHS groups. No WHS-related adverse reactions were reported. Hence, WHS could be used as a health supplement for skin anti-aging.

Safflower Seed Oil and Its Active Compound Acacetin Inhibit UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging.

Ultraviolet (UV) is one of the major factors harmful to skin health. Irradiation with ultraviolet accelerates the decline of skin function, causing the skin to have deep wrinkles, dryness, decreased procollagen production, and degradation of collagen. Novel materials are needed to prevent the aging of the skin by blocking the effects of UV. Safflower seed oil (Charthamus tinctorius L., SSO) contains significantly high levels of unsaturated fatty acids and phytochemicals. SSO has been traditionally used in China, Japan, and Korea to improve skin and hair. Our objective in this study was to determine the effect of SSO and its active compound acacetin on UVB-induced skin photoaging in HaCaT cells and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). SSO inhibited UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) at both protein and mRNA levels in HaCaT cells and HDF. MMP-1 is known to play important roles in collagen degradation and wrinkle formation. Acacetin, a type of flavonoid, is present in SSO. Similar to SSO, acacetin also inhibited UVB-induced MMP-1 protein and mRNA levels in HaCaT cells and HDF. MMP-1 mRNA is primarily regulated by the mitogen-activated kinase (MAPK) signaling pathway. Acacetin regulated the phosphorylation of JNK1/2 and c-jun, but did not inhibit the phosphorylation of ERK1/2, p38 and AKT. Taken together, these results indicate that SSO and its active compound acacetin can prevent UVB-induced MMP-1 expression, which leads to skin photoaging, and may therefore have therapeutic potential as an anti-wrinkle agent to improve skin health.

Investigation of symptoms of hand skin changes with aging in Korean women and development of a new standard grading scale for hand aging.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging, particularly facial skin, has been actively studied. However, hand skin research is limited. METHODS: Aging symptoms of 100 hands of Korean women aged from 20s to 60s were measured by noninvasive and bioengineering methods. Standard grade images were produced. RESULTS: As people got older, skin wrinkles were getting worse and skin tone was uneven with the occurrence of structural flexion. For each symptom, a suitable standard photograph of the skin of the hand was chosen and a new grading scale was made. CONCLUSIONS: The new grading scale developed in the present study could be employed in studies to explore aging of hand skin as one of objective indicators.

Concise Synthesis of Catechin Metabolites 5-(3',4'-Dihydroxyphenyl)-γ-valerolactones (DHPV) in Optically Pure Form and Their Stereochemical Effects on Skin Wrinkle-Reducing Activities.

A concise and scalable synthetic route for optically pure (4S) and (4R)-5-(3',4'-dihydroxyphenyl)-γ-valerolactones (DHPVs), catechin metabolites, has been developed via the efficient construction of a γ-valerolactone moiety from hexenol. Noticeably, the different skin wrinkle-reducing activities of each metabolite were revealed via our unique syntheses of DHPVs in an enantiomerically pure form.

Clinical evaluation of the safety and efficacy of a timosaponin A-III-based antiwrinkle agent against skin aging.

BACKGROUND: Timosaponin A-III (TA-III) is known to exist in the medicinal herb of Anemarrhena asphodeloides as one of major chemical components. AIMS: The photoprotective properties of TA-III on UVB-exposed HaCaT cells were evaluated on the antiwrinkle effects and skin safety in terms of clinical trial. METHODS: The level of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases (TIMPs), and pro-inflammatory cytokines were measured in HaCaT cells following UVB irradiation. To evaluate the clinical safety of an agent containing 0.25% of TA-III for use on human skin. Female subjects (n = 21) between the ages of 43 and 55 who met the criteria for subject selection were selected. They were beginning to form or had already formed wrinkles. RESULTS: UVB irradiation increased MMP-1 expression and pro-inflammatory cytokines. These increases were attenuated by TA-III pretreatment of UVB-exposed HaCaT cells. We found that the agent containing 0.25% of TA-III ameliorated skin wrinkling. A comparison between groups showed that wrinkle parameters were significantly reduced after 12 weeks of product use (P < 0.05). According to skin safety result, TA-III showed no dermatological toxicity was found in participants. CONCLUSIONS: In conclusion, TA-III could provide protection against photoaging and daily application of TA-III for 12 weeks significantly reduced signs of facial aging by limiting wrinkle formation.

Inhibitory effects of Sanguisorba officinalis root extract on HYBID (KIAA1199)-mediated hyaluronan degradation and skin wrinkling.

OBJECTIVES: Hyaluronan (HA), an important constituent of extracellular matrix in the skin, has many biological activities such as hydration that contributes to firmness and bounciness of the skin. We have reported that reduction in HA in the papillary dermis and over-expression of HYBID (HYaluronan Binding protein Involved in hyaluronan Depolymerization, alias KIAA1199 or CEMIP), a key molecule for HA degradation in skin fibroblasts, are implicated in facial skin wrinkling in Japanese and Caucasian women. However, little or no information is available for substances which inhibit the HYBID-mediated HA degradation. METHODS: Inhibition of Sanguisorba officinalis root extract and ziyuglycoside I, one of the components of Sanguisorba officinalis root extract, to the HYBID-mediated HA degradation was assessed by size-exclusion chromatography of HA depolymerized by stable transfectants of HYBID in HEK293 cells (HYBID/HEK293 cells) or normal human skin fibroblasts (Detroit 551 cells and NHDF-Ad cells). The HYBID mRNA and protein expression was examined by quantitative real-time PCR and immunoblotting in the skin fibroblasts treated with Sanguisorba officinalis root extract, and size distribution of newly produced HA was evaluated by preparing metabolically radiolabelled HA. A double-blind, randomized and placebo-controlled study was carried out in the 21 healthy Japanese women, who were topically treated with the formulation containing Sanguisorba officinalis root extract or the placebo on each side of the face including crow's foot area. RESULTS: Sanguisorba officinalis root extract, but not ziyuglycoside I, abolished HYBID-mediated HA degradation by HYBID/HEK293 cells. Sanguisorba officinalis root extract also inhibited HYBID-mediated HA degradation in skin fibroblasts by down-regulating HYBID mRNA and protein expression. Although control untreated skin fibroblasts produced polydispersed HA, the cells treated with Sanguisorba officinalis root extract produced only high-molecular-weight HA. Treatment with Sanguisorba officinalis root extract-formulated lotion significantly improved skin elasticity, and reduced skin wrinkling scores at the outer eye corner compared with the placebo formulation. CONCLUSION: Sanguisorba officinalis root extract showed an anti-HYBID-mediated HA degradation activity and anti-wrinkle activity on human facial skin, which is accompanied by the improvement in elasticity. Our study provides the possibility of a new strategy to inhibit HYBID-mediated HA degradation for anti-wrinkle care.

OBJECTIFS: l'acide hyaluronique (AH), un composant important de la matrice extracellulaire de la peau, assure de nombreuses activités biologiques, telles que l'hydratation qui contribue à la fermeté et l'élasticité de la peau. Nous avons rapporté que la réduction d'AH dans le derme papillaire et une surexpression de la protéine de liaison de l'AH impliquée dans la dépolymérisation de l'AH (HYBID, alias KIAA1199 ou CEMIP), une molécule clé de la dégradation de l'AH des fibroblastes cutanés, sont impliquées dans la formation des rides au niveau de la peau du visage chez les femmes d'origine japonaise et caucasienne. Cependant, peu ou aucune information n'est disponible concernant les substances qui inhibent la dégradation de l'AH provoquée par la protéine HYBID. MÉTHODES: l'inhibition de l'extrait de racine de la pimprenelle (Sanguisorba officinalis) et du ziyuglycoside I, l'un des composants de l'extrait de racine de Sanguisorba officinalis, sur la dégradation de l'AH provoquée par la protéine HYBID a été évaluée à l'aide d'une chromatographie par exclusion stérique de l'AH dépolymérisé par des transfectants stables de la protéine HYBID dans les cellules HEK293 (cellules HYBID/HEK293) ou les fibroblastes cutanés humains normaux (lignée cellulaire Detroit 551 et cellules des fibroblastes du derme humain chez l'adulte). L'expression de l'ARNm et de la protéine HYBID a été examinée par PCR quantitative en temps réel et par immuno-empreinte des fibroblastes cutanés traités avec de l'extrait de racine de Sanguisorba officinalis, et l'attribution des tailles des nouveaux échantillons produits de l'AH a été évaluée par préparation d'AH radiomarqué métaboliquement. Une étude en double aveugle, randomisée et contrôlée par placebo a été menée auprès des 21 femmes japonaises en bonne santé, qui ont été traitées localement avec la formulation élaborée à partir d'extraits de racine de Sanguisorba officinalis ou un placebo, sur chaque côté du visage, notamment sur la zone à pattes d'oie. RÉSULTATS: l'extrait de racine de Sanguisorba officinalis a permis d'arrêter la dégradation de l'AH provoquée par la protéine HYBID par les cellules HYBID/HEK293, mais ce n'était pas le cas du ziyuglycoside I. L'extrait de racine de Sanguisorba officinalis a également inhibé la dégradation de l'AH provoquée par la protéine HYBID des fibroblastes cutanés en diminuant l'expression de l'ARNm et des protéines HYBID. Bien que les fibroblastes cutanés témoins non traités aient produit de l'AH polydispersé, les cellules traitées aux extraits de racine de Sanguisorba officinalis ont produit uniquement de l'AH de haut poids moléculaire. Le traitement par lotion formulée à partir d'extraits de racine de Sanguisorba officinalis a amélioré de manière significative l'élasticité de la peau et réduit les scores de vieillissement du coin extérieur de la peau autour des yeux, par rapport à la formulation placebo. CONCLUSION: l'extrait de racine de Sanguisorba officinalis a démontré une action anti-dégradation de l'AH provoquée par la protéine HYBID et une activité antirides au niveau de la peau du visage humain, s'accompagnant d'une amélioration de l'élasticité. Notre étude fournit la possibilité d'une nouvelle stratégie pour inhiber la dégradation de l'AH provoquée par la protéine HYBID dans le cadre des soins antirides.

Anti-Photoaging Effects of Angelica acutiloba Root Ethanol Extract in Human Dermal Fibroblasts.

The effects that ultraviolet rays elicit on collagen synthesis and degradation are the most common causes of wrinkle formation and photo-aging in skin. The objectives of this study were to evaluate the effects of Angelica acutiloba root ethanol extract (AAEE) to promote collagen synthesis and inhibit collagen degradation in human dermal fibroblasts. By examining total polyphenol and flavonoid contents, electron donating ability, radical scavenging activity, and superoxide dismutase-like activity, we found that AAEE exhibited fairly good antioxidant activity. Treatment with AAEE significantly increased type I procollagen production by cultured fibroblasts, as well as reduced ultraviolet-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression and MMP-2 activity in a dose-dependent manner (p < 0.05). In addition, AAEE significantly increased TIMP-1 mRNA expression (p < 0.05), although without an associated dose-dependent increase in TIMP-1 protein expression. In summary, we suggest that AAEE may be a potentially effective agent for the prevention or alleviation of skin-wrinkle formation induced by ultraviolet rays.

Quantitative and quanlitative changes of wrinkles in ultraviolet irradiated skin of hairless mice / 中华医学美学美容杂志

Objective To study the changes of skin wrinkles in hairless mice while exposed to ultraviolet. Methods The hairless mice were irradiated under long-wave ultraviolet ray (UVA), medium-frequency wave ultraviolet ray (UVB) and the combination of the two for 20 weeks. Total dose of UVA was 222J/cm~2, and that of UVB was 5.9J/ cm~2. After irradiation, the skin wrinkling of animals were analysed by the naked eye, dermatoglyphics enlarges and applied color skin system of pathologic portrait quantitative analysis. Results Control group: The hairless mice skin were fine and delicate, the ditch and ridge of skin distributed even, and had no the obvious cornification. Long wave ultraviolet ray (UVA) set: The skin was slightly rough, skin ditch and ridge distributed still even, and had no obvious cornification; quantitative analysis had no the obvious difference from that of control group. Medium-frequency wave ultraviolet ray (UVB) set: The dermatoglyphics were disorderly, and the skin ditch deepened, widened, and the skin ridge increased the breadth and obvious cornification, and quantitative analysis had obvious difference from that of control group. Long wave and medium-frequency wave ultraviolet ray (UVA+ UVB) set: The dermatoglyphics was disorderly, and the skin ditch deepened, widened, the skin ridge increased the breadth, skin cornification was more obvious, quantitative analysis had obvious difference from that of control group. Conclusions The qualitative and quantitative changes of the wrinkles in the ultraviolet irradiated skin of hairless mice are related to ultraviolet B but not to UVA. UVB is a key factor of skin wrinkling in UV-irradiation.