Spectral Homeostasis - The Fundamental Requirement for an Ideal Sunscreen.

Sunscreen application to UV-exposed skin is promoted to prevent skin cancer and sun damage, within a comprehensive photoprotection strategy that also includes sun avoidance and wearing UV protective clothing. The benefits of sunscreen are verified in preventing sunburn but appear to be largely presumptive in skin cancer prevention. Contemporary science establishes UVA as a primary driver of melanoma and photoaging. Consequentially, the traditional UVB-skewed protection of sunscreens provides an intellectual and logical explanation for rising skin cancer rates and, in particular, their failure to protect against melanoma. Better protection could be achieved with more balanced UVB/UVA sunscreens, toward spectral homeostasis protection. Greater balanced protection has another advantage of attenuating fewer UVB rays, which aid synthesis of vitamin D and nitric oxide. Percutaneous absorption of Soluble Organic UV Filters leads to systemic exposure, which becomes the relevant safety consideration. It is minimized by selecting Insoluble UV Filters with low absorption potential from a molecular weight above 500 Da. The filters must also be very hydrophilic, very lipophilic, or consist of particles. The risk-benefit ratio is a medical imperative, more so for cosmetics or sunscreens, since in principle there should be no risk from their use. The production of ideal sunscreens that mimic the effective, balanced UVB/UVA attenuation of textiles and shade is now possible, while maintaining an acceptable therapeutic margin of safety in humans and a favorable ecologic profile. Sunscreens with a favorable risk-benefit ratio and good esthetic properties or other consumer-friendly attributes will improve compliance and may achieve substantial clinical benefits.

Performance Metrics of Sunscreen Formulations: In Vitro and In Vivo Techniques.

Effective skin protection of consumers by sunscreens can only be achieved when meaningful and reliable test methods are available to objectively measure the protection of sunscreen products. Quantitative, scientifically sound, and valid methods to detect UVB and UVA light protection as well as methods to assess sunscreen substantivity to water are required. Continuous improvement and, if necessary, extension of the test methods are important to provide optimum protection from harmful sun rays to the consumer. This work documents the historical background of the development of sunscreen test methods and provides the actual worldwide status of applied methods. Future developments and trends are discussed as far as they actually become apparent.

Challenges in Formulating Sunscreen Products.

Developing efficient sunscreen products with an acceptable sensory feel after application on skin, that meet current regulatory market and consumer requirements, is a major challenge, exacerbated by new restrictions limiting the use of certain ingredients previously considered crucial. This paper outlines a development strategy for -formulating sunscreens along a generic professional development pathway. Each galenic system will be different and must be customized. Development starts with benchmarking, followed by UVA/UVB filter platform selection and in silico calculation/optimization of photoprotection performance for the desired SPF, UVA-PF, and other requested endpoints. Next comes the selection of the emulsifier system and other key formulation ingredients, such as oil components, triplet quenchers, and antioxidants, with sensory, rheological, and film formation functions. Preliminary cost estimation is then performed to -complete the conceptual process before the start of the practical galenic development. The successful development of modern sunscreen products is based on -comprehensive expertise in chemistry, galenic methodology, regulation, and patenting, as well as specific -market and consumer requirements. The selection of the UV filters is the first key decision and constrains later choices. Other properties, such as water resistance and preservation or active ingredients, may need to be considered. The 4 basic requirements of efficacy, safety, registration, and patent freedom become checklist items to ensure that after development, a sunscreen product has a chance of success.

Natural and Simulated Solar Radiation.

The extra-terrestrial solar spectrum corresponds approximately to a black body of temperature about 5,800 K, with the ultraviolet region accounting for almost 8% of the total solar energy. Terrestrial solar spectral irradiance peaks at around 500 nm in the blue-green region, whereas the diffuse component peaks in the UVAI-blue region of the spectrum, with the infrared component comprising almost entirely direct radiation. Several factors impact on the magnitude and spectral profile of terrestrial solar spectral irradiance, and these include solar elevation, reflection from land and sea, air pollution, altitude above sea level and cloud cover. Measurements of erythemal UV from a number of ground-based networks around the world indicate an approximate 4-fold difference in ambient annual exposure between Australia and countries in northern Europe. In the absence of measured data, models to compute solar UV irradiance are a useful tool for studying the impact of variables on the UV climate. Simulated sources of sunlight based on a xenon arc lamp can be configured to give a close match to the spectral output of natural sunlight at wavelengths less than about 350 nm, and these are invaluable in the laboratory determination of sunscreen performance, notably the Sun Protection Factor (SPF). However, the divergence -between natural and simulated solar spectra at longer wavelengths may explain why SPFs measured in natural sunlight are less than those determined in the laboratory.

Regulation of Sun Protection Products in the EU.

Unlike more "traditional" cosmetic products, sunscreens do not sit inertly on the skin, providing a simple decorative effect. Their recognized and important contribution to public health has led many regions in the world to treat them as drugs or special cosmetics. Against the trend at that time, in 1976, the EU legislator already took a conscious decision to treat and regulate sunscreens as fast-moving consumer products. Since then, the EU Cosmetics Directive/Regulation balances the need for strict safety and efficacy requirements, with need for rapid innovation and easy consumer availability. Whilst the EU Regulation considers that "all cosmetic products are equal," sunscreens are clearly "more equal." In several areas of the legislation, specific requirements or guidance for sunscreen products have been introduced over the years. Whilst staying in the overall spirit of the legislation, these requirements take into account the specificity of sunscreens with regard to ingredient safety (positive list for UV filters), product safety assessment (photostability, deliberate exposure to UV light), minimum efficacy (UVA/UVB), efficacy testing (standardized test methods) and labelling (clear use instructions, non-misleading information to consumers). The article presents the history of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, its main requirements, where applicable, and specific considerations relating to sunscreens are highlighted and explained.

Assessment of Natural Sunlight Protection Provided by 10 High-SPF Broad-Spectrum Sunscreens and Sun-Protective Fabrics.

In 1978, the FDA Advisory Panel proposed both indoor and natural sunlight SPF testing methods but reverted to indoor testing only in 1993. Today's sunscreen sun protection and broad-spectrum claims are based on mandated clinical tests using solar simulators and in vitro spectrophotometers. This research evaluated the protection of 10 high-SPF (30-110), broad-spectrum sunscreen products, as well as 6 sun-protective fabrics against natural sunlight in Arequipa, Peru. Each of the 17 subjects was exposed to natural sunlight for 1 h and 59 min under clear skies, with temperatures and humidity similar to those in an indoor clinical laboratory. Test sites were photographed 16-24 h later. Four dermatologists evaluated the photographs for erythema and persistent pigment darkening (PPD). Perceptible sun-induced skin injury (sunburn and/or pigmentation) was detected at 97% of the sunscreen-protected scores. The most sun-sensitive subjects obtained the least erythema protection. The higher the SPF was, the higher the erythema protection, but the intensity of PPD was also higher. The 2 sunscreens using only FDA-approved sunscreen filters rated 30 SPF and 45+ SPF performed poorly: Eighty-one percent of the 136 scores were graded 1 minimal erythema dose or higher erythema, achieving, at a maximum, SPF of 5-7 in natural sunlight. Sun-protective fabrics tested provided excellent sun protection. The erythema and PPD observed through the sunscreens in less than 2 h are incongruous with the broad-spectrum, high-SPF sunscreen claims. Reapplying these sunscreens and staying in the sun longer, as stated on the product labels, would have subjected the subjects to even more UV exposure. High-SPF, broad-spectrum sunscreen claims based on indoor solar simulator testing do not agree with the natural sunlight protection test results.

HDRS - Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy: Non-Erythemal In Vivo Driven SPF and UVA-PF Testing.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: In order to define a label SPF of topically applied sunscreens, in vivo test methods like ISO 24444, FDA Guideline, and the Australian Standard are used worldwide. The basis of all these methods is to induce an erythemal skin reaction by UV irradiation to find the level of MEDu and MEDp (Minimal Erythmal Dose unprotected and protected). In vitro methods replacing the human skin by any kind of nonhuman material are still not available. Thus, offering the new hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS) technique that can maintain an in vivo level for SPF testing while neglecting the UV-dose-related erythemal skin reaction is a perfect combination to take care of sun protection and any ethical concerns in SPF testing nowadays. METHODS: HDRS is a combination of in vivo diffuse reflectance spectroscopy measurements on the skin and in vitro transmission measurements of a sunscreen on a roughened polymethylmethacrylate plate. By this technique, the in vivo behavior of the investigated sunscreen on the skin is measured as well as the UVB absorption, which is still nonvisible in the reflectance technique. In order to establish an alternative method for in vivo SPF and UVA-PF testing, a huge number of sunscreens (250 samples) were measured by HDRS and compared with the worldwide accepted standards ISO 24444, ISO 24442, and ISO 24443. The variety of sunscreens measured reflect a wide range of different types of formulations as well as a wide range of SPFs (5-120) to validate this new alternative SPF testing procedure. RESULTS: Far-reaching statistical data analyses show an excellent link between the new nonerythemal-driven HDRS-SPF technique and ISO 24444 results. In the same way, HDRS-UVA-PF results can be correlated with UVA-PF values calculated from ISO 24442 as well as from ISO 24443. The importance of the inclusion of a spectral ratio of photodegradation is shown in the comparison of photostable and photounstable products. CONCLUSION: Owing to the elimination of any erythemal-relevant UVB and UVA doses, absolutely no skin reaction occurs during the HDRS experiment. Consequently, there is no need to define an MED anymore. For the first time, an alternative way to arriving at SPF and UVA-PF values is shown, without any ethical concerns of SPF testing in vivo and/or any restriction of SPF testing in vitro. Regardless of the type of formulation or the level of protection, an excellent correlation between SPFHDRSand SPF24444as for sunscreen labeling could be found. By this new alternative nonerythemal technique, not only SPF values can be measured but also UVA-PF values can be calculated with a linear correlation to ISO 24442 as well as to ISO 24443 from the same set of data. By this a robust alternative test method of SPF and UVA-PF values is described, taking into account the interaction of sunscreen formulation and skin.

Past, Present, and Future of Sun Protection Metrics.

Since the beginning of the development of sunscreen products, efforts have been made to measure and quantify the protection performance of such products. Early on an in vivo method was established that allowed statements on the sun protection performance in humans. Later, by establishing defined basic and experimental conditions, the method became internationally standardized delivering the well-known sun protection factor (SPF). The method was widely used and is nowadays regarded as a gold-standard method. Further standardized methods were added shortly thereafter. However, shortcomings such as the confined radiation spectra used by the methods, the invasiveness, the complexity in their application, as well as their time- and cost-intensity promoted the development of alternative methods. The shortcomings were recently followed by another, namely, the large interlaboratory variances of the sun protection metrics SPFISO 24444. This all together shows that there is a justifiable need to explore the potential of alternative methods, to complement the existing methods, to serve as equivalents, or even to replace it in the future. Based on the work of Uhlig and coworkers, the authors propose to test the suitability of the alternative methods and their possible equivalency to the reference methods in a broad-based investigation, taking into account possible interlaboratory variances. A research program - developed by a consortium - is in public planning where stakeholders from research, industry, authorities, and the public can come together to facilitate and further advance standardization of the measurement of the sun protection performance. The authors give an insight into historical, technical--conceptual, and future developments of methods for -determining the protective performance of sun protection products.

Sunscreens and Photoaging: A Review of Current Literature.

Sunscreens have been on the market for many decades as a means of protection against ultraviolet-induced erythema. Over the years, evidence has also shown their efficacy in the prevention of photoaging, dyspigmentation, DNA damage, and photocarcinogenesis. In the USA, most broad-spectrum sunscreens provide protection against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation and short-wavelength ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation. Evidence suggests that visible light and infrared light may play a role in photoaging and should be considered when choosing a sunscreen. Currently, there is a paucity of US FDA-approved filters that provide protection against long UVA (> 370 nm) and none against visible light. Additionally, various sunscreen additives such as antioxidants and photolyases have also been reported to protect against and possibly reverse signs of photoaging. This literature review evaluates the utility of sunscreen in protecting against photoaging and further explores the requirements for an ideal sunscreen.

The Influence of Short-Wave and Long-Wave Radiation Spectrum on the Photostability of Sunscreens.

BACKGROUND: Sunscreen products aim to help protect the skin against UV radiation and consequently reduce the risk of early skin ageing and skin cancer. However, it is well known that some sunscreen ingredients are not photostable, but this usually refers to irradiation with UV light. Moreover, it has to be mentioned that a relative cumulative erythema effectiveness compliant light source is used for the in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) testing. Here, UV simulators equipped with a xenon arc lamp use filters such as WG320 and UG11 (thickness 1 mm) to minimize infrared (IR) radiation and wavelength below 300 nm. However, under practical conditions, the sunscreen product is not only exposed to UVA/B light, but also to visible light (VIS) and IR light. In fact, the spectrum of solar radiation is composed of approximately 7% UV, 39% VIS and 54% IR. AIMS: To investigate the influence of short-wave and long-wave radiation on the photostability of sunscreens. METHODS: Irradiation was performed with the Suntest CPS+ that is considered to closely imitate solar radiation. The filter UG11 (thickness 1 mm), which absorbs much of the VIS and IR light, and the glass filter WG320 (thickness 2 mm), which effectively absorbs radiation of wavelengths less than 300 nm, were used in the Suntest CPS+ both individually and in combination and were inserted between the light source and the samples. The following transmission measurements were carried out with Labsphere's UV-2000s device. Here, the effectiveness (percentage change of SPF before irradiation to SPF after irradiation) as a measure of the photostability was calculated. RESULTS: As expected after total solar spectrum irradiation, the effectiveness in all tested sunscreens is lower compared to relative cumulative erythema effectiveness light used for in vitro testing of SPF. In the reference sunscreen formula S2 as well as in the two different sunscreen products, especially long-wave radiation (>400 nm) had an effect on photostability, whereas short-wave radiation had only a minor impact. In contrast, in the BASF sun care gel line only short-wave radiation below 300 nm had an effect on photostability, and blocking VIS and IR light had no effect at all. CONCLUSION: Based on these data, we can conclude that short waves and/or VIS + IR light have an influence on the photostability of sunscreens.

Linear and exponential sunscreen behaviours as an explanation for observed discrepancies in sun protection factor testing.

BACKGROUND: In vivo testing of sun protection factor (SPF) values can show considerable interlaboratory variability. We studied the underlying reasons and clinical implications. METHODS: Following the ISO 24444:2010 SPF testing method, seven contract research organizations (CROs) tested eight sunscreens marketed as SPF50 or SPF50+ and the reference SPF15 sunscreens P2 and P3 and SPF43 P6. We analysed differences in the products and CRO testing methods with regard to SPF variability. We tested the erythema prevention capacity of five of the products in subjects exposed to high doses of natural sunlight in Mauritius. RESULTS: Sun protection factor values varied dramatically between different CROs for some, but not all of the sunscreens. Those with the largest variability had an SPF50+, and their SPF values differed from a maximum of 62.4 to a minimum of 5.5. These products did not share a common sun-filter composition, and some CROs used low and others high irradiation dose regimens. When comparing these two regimens, test products fell into two categories: (i) they either behaved similarly ("linear") or (ii) they behaved differently ("exponential"). In the outdoor clinical study, exponential and linear sunscreens did not differ in their photoprotection capacities. CONCLUSION: Differences in reported SPF values depend on the linear vs exponential behaviour of such products if subjected to low- vs high-dose test regimens. Under real-time exposure to natural sunlight, exponential and linear sunscreens did not differ in their erythema prevention capacity. Laboratory SPF testing of exponential sunscreens bears the risk of underestimating their in-use SPF.

An Experimental Investigation of Human Presence and Mobile Technologies on College Students' Sun Protection Intentions: Between-Subjects Study.

BACKGROUND: Health promotion and education programs are increasingly being adapted and developed for delivery through digital technologies. With this shift toward digital health approaches, it is important to identify design strategies in health education and promotion programs that enhance participant engagement and promote behavior change. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to examine the impact of an experiment testing various mobile health (mHealth) skin cancer prevention messages on sun protection intentions and message perceptions among American college students. METHODS: A sample of 134 college students aged 18 years or older participated in a 2×2×2 between-subjects experimental study, designed to examine the individual and combinatory effects of multiple dimensions (human presence, screen size, and interactivity) of digital technologies. The primary study outcome was intention to use sun protection; secondary outcomes included attitudes toward the information, two dimensions of trust, and information processing. RESULTS: Generally, intention to use sun protection was positively associated with the presence of human characters in the health educational messages (P<.001), delivering educational health messages on a large screen (ie, iPad; P<.001), and higher interactivity (P<.001). Only human presence produced more favorable attitudes (P=.02). Affective trust was positively associated with human presence (P=.006) and large screen size (P<.001), whereas cognitive trust was positively associated with human presence (P<.001) and small screen size (P=.007). Moreover, large screen size led to more heuristic processing (P=.03), whereas small screen size led to more systematic processing (P=.04). CONCLUSIONS: This experimental study demonstrates that the impact of mHealth skin cancer prevention messages differs based on platform and delivery design features. Effects on behavioral intentions, attitudes, and trust were found for conditions with human presence, highlighting the importance of including this feature in mHealth programs. Results from this experimental study can be used to optimize the design of mHealth educational interventions that promote sun protection.

Cosmetic Versus Medicine: How Does Your Country Define Sunscreen?

Skin cancer (melanoma and non-melanoma) is the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the United States of America, and non-melanoma skin cancer is the most common cause of Australian hospitalisations with cancer as the principle diagnosis, having a huge cost to the country's health care system. Primary and secondary skin cancer prevention is globally inadequate, with only 3 in 10 American adults using sun protection routinely. Evidence suggests that regular sunscreen use in Australians prevents both melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers, and American research has found that daily sunscreen use reduced the incidence of melanoma - the most skin cancer deaths - by half. Despite this, in many countries and regions around the world, a major ongoing divergence remains on the classification of sunscreen as either a cosmetic product or a form of medical therapy, which in turn affects the consumers' attitudes towards the use of sunscreen. This is also affected by the increasing use of the internet, which has made the purchasing of products internationally convenient and easy for consumers worldwide, including sunscreen products, which are frequently marketed online. There is variation between each country or region and their regulations of sunscreen affect the consequent labelling claims of sunscreen products. This affects the unsuspecting consumer's choices in purchasing sun protection, which may be misinformed. Australia, Canada, and the US are the only countries to classify sunscreen as a form of medical therapy. This paper explores the current classification of sunscreen products in countries and regions around the world and discusses the impact of these discrepancies and similarities on the attitudes of consumers towards sunscreen use. Finally, we make suggestions on changes that can be made to encourage sunscreen use and safe sunscreen purchasing. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018;17(8):899-904.

Sun protective behaviors at an outdoor entertainment event in Australia.

An observational study was conducted to examine the use of sun protective hats, clothing, and sunglasses of people attending an outdoor entertainment event in an area of high-to-extreme ultraviolet radiation in New South Wales, Australia. Armidale is unique, as it is a highly-elevated area, almost 1000 m above sea level, and temperatures are often mild with very high-to-extreme levels of ultraviolet radiation. Four trained data collectors observed attendees as they entered the event, and recorded their use of sun protective hats, clothing, and sunglasses. While more than half of the attendees wore sun protective hats, only 14% wore sun protective clothing. Broad-brimmed hats were considered sun protective, while sun protective clothing was defined by shirts with at least three-quarter-length sleeves. Females were more likely to wear both a sun protective hat and clothing than males, and children were less protected than adults. Legislative changes are required to ensure that organizers of outdoor events have a legal responsibility to provide a safe environment for attendees, including strategies to help reduce ultraviolet radiation exposure.

Sunscreen compliance with regional clinical practice guidelines and product labeling standards in New Zealand.

INTRODUCTION For general practitioners, practice nurses and community pharmacists in New Zealand, a core duty is to educate patients about sun protection. We aimed to evaluate compliance of locally available sunscreens with regional clinical practice guidelines and sunscreen labelling standards, to assist clinicians in advising consumers on sunscreen selection. METHODS We audited all sunscreens available at two Auckland stores for three New Zealand sunscreen retailers. We then assessed compliance with accepted regional clinical practice guidelines for sun protection from the New Zealand Guidelines Group. We further assessed compliance with regional Australia/New Zealand consumer standards for sunscreen labelling. RESULTS All sunscreens satisfied clinical guidelines for broad-spectrum protection, and 99% of sunscreens met or exceeded clinical guidelines for minimal Sun Protection Factor. Compliance with regional standardized labelling guidelines is voluntary in New Zealand and 27% of audited sunscreens were not fully compliant with SPF labelling standards. DISCUSSION Sunscreens were generally compliant with clinical guidelines for minimal sun protection. However there was substantial noncompliance with regional recommendations for standardized sunscreen labelling. Primary health care clinicians should be aware that this labelling noncompliance may mislead patients into thinking some sunscreens offer more sun protection than they do. Mandatory compliance with the latest regional labelling standards would simplify sunscreen selection by New Zealand consumers. KEYWORDS Sunscreen; Sun Protection Factor; SPF; Skin Neoplasms; Melanoma; Skin Cancer Prevention.

Evaporation of Sunscreen Films: How the UV Protection Properties Change.

We have investigated the evaporation of thin sunscreen films and how the light absorption and the derived sun protection factor (SPF) change. For films consisting of solutions of common UV filters in propylene glycol (PG) as solvent, we show how evaporation generally causes three effects. First, the film area can decrease by dewetting leading to a transient increase in the average film thickness. Second, the film thins by evaporative loss of the solvent. Third, precipitation of the UV filter occurs when solvent loss causes the solubility limit to be reached. These evaporation-induced changes cause the UV absorbance of the film to decrease with resultant loss of SPF over the time scale of the evaporation. We derive an approximate model which accounts semiquantitatively for the variation of SPF with evaporation. Experimental results for solutions of different UV filters on quartz, different skin mimicking substrates, films with added nanoparticles, films with an added polymer and films with fast-evaporating decane as solvent (instead of slow evaporating PG) are discussed and compared with model calculations. Addition of either nanoparticles or polymer suppress film dewetting. Overall, it is hoped that the understanding gained about the mechanisms whereby film evaporation affects the SPF will provide useful guidance for the formulation of more effective sunscreens.

FR ¿El uso de fotoprotectores elimina el riesgo de desarrollar melanoma? / Do Sunscreens Eliminate the Risk of Melanoma?

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