Assessing the Impact of Neuromuscular Electrical Stimulation-Based Fingerboard Training versus Conventional Fingerboard Training on Finger Flexor Endurance in Intermediate to Advanced Sports Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Study.

Competitive climbers engage in highly structured training regimens to achieve peak performance levels, with efficient time management as a critical aspect. Neuromuscular electrical stimulation (NMES) training can close the gap between time-efficient conditioning training and achieving optimal prerequisites for peak climbing-specific performances. Therefore, we examined potential neuromuscular adaptations resulting from the NMFES intervention by analyzing the efficacy of twice-weekly NMES-supported fingerboard (hang board) training compared with thrice-weekly conventional fingerboard training over 7 training weeks in enhancing climbing-specific endurance among intermediate to advanced climbers. Participants were randomly divided into the NMES and control groups. Eighteen participants completed the study (14 male, 4 female; mean age: 25.7 ± 5.3 years; mean climbing experience: 6.4 ± 3.4 years). Endurance was assessed by measuring the maximal time athletes could support their body weight (hanging to exhaustion) on a 20 mm-deep ledge at three intervals: pre-, in-between- (after 4 weeks of training), and post-training (after 7 weeks of training). The findings revealed that despite the lower training volume in the NMES group, no significant differences were observed between the NMES and control groups in climbing-specific endurance. Both groups exhibited notable improvements in endurance, particularly after the in-between test. Consequently, a twice-weekly NMES-supported fingerboard training regimen demonstrated non-inferiority to a thrice-weekly conventional training routine. Incorporating NMES into fingerboard workouts could offer time-saving benefits.

The effects of five weeks of climbing training, on and off the wall, on climbing specific strength, performance, and training experience in female climbers-A randomized controlled trial.

Recent research has elucidated the effects of strength training on climbing performance. Although local muscular endurance training of the upper-limbs and finger flexors is frequently suggested, there is currently insufficient evidence to support its impact on climbing performance and climbing-specific strength. Furthermore, there is no evidence on climbers' experiences related to training and the likelihood of consistent engagement. In addition, the effects of more climbing-specific strength training on walls with built in lights and adjustable angles have yet to be examined. The low percentage of studies involving female subjects, additionally, demonstrates a significant gap in understanding the specific effects of strength training on women in the context of climbing. The aim of this study was thus to assess the effects of five-week on-, and off-the-wall climbing training on climbing performance, climbing-specific strength, and training experience. Thirty-one female lower-grade to advanced climbers were randomly assigned to either a control group, an off-the-wall training or an on-the-wall training group. Apart from the training regimen, all groups followed their usual climbing and bouldering routine. Subjects trained at least twice a week. Bouldering performance, and maximum strength and muscular endurance of the finger flexors and upper-limbs were assessed before and after the intervention. Furthermore, rate of perceived exertion and discomfort, exercise enjoyment, and exercise pleasure were assessed during the first and last training session, as well as after two and a half weeks of training. Intrinsic training motivation was assessed after the last training session. The results showed trends towards positive effects of off-the-wall training on climbing-specific strength, and on-the-wall training on climbing technique. Furthermore, our finding revealed high exercise enjoyment and intrinsic training motivation for both on- and off-the-wall training. Hence, lower-grade to advanced female climbers should rely on personal training preferences.

Telomeric RNA (TERRA) increases in response to spaceflight and high-altitude climbing.

Telomeres are repetitive nucleoprotein complexes at chromosomal termini essential for maintaining genome stability. Telomeric RNA, or TERRA, is a previously presumed long noncoding RNA of heterogeneous lengths that contributes to end-capping structure and function, and facilitates telomeric recombination in tumors that maintain telomere length via the telomerase-independent Alternative Lengthening of Telomeres (ALT) pathway. Here, we investigated TERRA in the radiation-induced DNA damage response (DDR) across astronauts, high-altitude climbers, healthy donors, and cellular models. Similar to astronauts in the space radiation environment and climbers of Mt. Everest, in vitro radiation exposure prompted increased transcription of TERRA, while simulated microgravity did not. Data suggest a specific TERRA DDR to telomeric double-strand breaks (DSBs), and provide direct demonstration of hybridized TERRA at telomere-specific DSB sites, indicative of protective TERRA:telomeric DNA hybrid formation. Targeted telomeric DSBs also resulted in accumulation of TERRA foci in G2-phase, supportive of TERRA's role in facilitating recombination-mediated telomere elongation. Results have important implications for scenarios involving persistent telomeric DNA damage, such as those associated with chronic oxidative stress (e.g., aging, systemic inflammation, environmental and occupational radiation exposures), which can trigger transient ALT in normal human cells, as well as for targeting TERRA as a therapeutic strategy against ALT-positive tumors.

Pathomechanics of lumbrical and flexor digitorum profundus muscle tears in climbers: A cadaveric model.

Lumbrical muscles originate on the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) tendons and, during fist making, they move in the same direction when FDP muscle produces maximal proximal tendon gliding. Injuries of the bipennate lumbricals have been described when a shear force acts between the origins on adjacent tendons of the FDP, as they glide in opposite directions in asymmetric hand postures. Other structures of the deep flexors complex can be affected during this injury mechanism, due to the so-called quadriga effect, which can commonly occur during sport climbing practise. Biomechanical studies are needed to better understand the pathomechanism. A cadaveric study was designed to analyse the effects of load during the fourth lumbrical muscle injury mechanism. The amount of FDP tendon gliding and metacarpophalangeal (MCP) joint flexion of the 5th finger were calculated. Ten fresh-frozen cadaveric specimens (ten non-paired forearms and hands) were used. The specimens were placed on a custom-made loading apparatus. The FDP of the 5th finger was loaded, inducing isolated flexion of the 5th finger, until rupture. The rupture occurred in all specimens, under a load of 11 kg (SD 4.94), at 9.23 mm of proximal tendon gliding (SD 3.55) and at 21.4° (SD 28.91) of MCP joint flexion. Lumbrical muscle detachment from the 4th FDP was observed, from distal to proximal, and changes in FDP tendons at the distal forearm level too. The quadriga effect can lead to injury of the bipennate lumbrical muscles and the deep flexors complex in the hand and forearm.

Altitude-Related Illness.

Altitude-related illness occurs as a result of inadequate acclimatization. The mainstay of prevention is a slow, graded ascent profile which gives the body time to respond to a low-oxygen environment. The diagnosis of these conditions is often difficult in resource-limited environments, so history and a physical exam are key in identifying patients who will require descent and evacuation. Treatment modalities such as supplemental oxygen, portable hyperbaric chambers, and medications, are all temporizing measures until the patient can be safely evacuated to a lower elevation.

Myoelectric manifestations of fatigue of the finger flexor muscles and endurance capacity in experienced versus intermediate climbers during suspension tasks.

Climbing is a physically demanding discipline, placing significant loads on the finger flexors. Notwithstanding the documented greater endurance capacity of experienced climbers, the mechanisms explaining these training-induced adaptations remain unknown. We therefore investigate whether two non-competing strategies - muscle adaptation and alternate muscle recruitment - may explain the disparity in endurance capacity in participants with different climbing experience. We analysed high-density surface electromyograms (EMGs) from 38 Advanced and Intermediate climbers, during suspension exercises over three different depths (15, 20, 30 mm) using a half-crimp grip position. From the spatial distribution of changes in MeDian Frequency and Root Mean Square values until failure, we assessed how much and how diffusely the myoelectric manifestations of fatigue took place. Advanced climbers exhibited greater endurance, as evidenced by significantly longer failure time (p < 0.009) and lower changes in MDF values (p < 0.013) for the three grip depths. These changes were confined to a small skin region (nearly 25% of the grid size), centred at variable locations across participants. Moreover, lower MDF changes were significantly associated with longer suspension times. Collectively, our results suggest that muscle adaptation rather than load sharing between and within muscles is more likely to explain the improved endurance in experienced climbers.

Cognitive-behavioural processes during route previewing in bouldering.

INTRODUCTION: In the Olympic climbing discipline of bouldering, climbers can preview boulders before actually climbing them. Whilst such pre-climbing route previewing is considered as central to subsequent climbing performance, research on cognitive-behavioural processes during the preparatory phase in the modality of bouldering is lacking. The present study aimed at extending existing findings on neural efficiency processes associated with advanced skill level during motor activity preparation by examining cognitive-behavioural processes during the previewing of boulders. METHODS: Intermediate (n = 20), advanced (n = 20), and elite (n = 20) climbers were asked to preview first, and then attempt two boulders of different difficulty levels (boulder 1: advanced difficulty; boulder 2: elite difficulty). During previewing, climbers' gaze behaviour was gathered using a portable eye-tracker. RESULTS: Linear regression revealed for both boulders a significant relation between participants' skill levels and both preview duration and number of scans during previewing. Elite climbers more commonly used a superficial scan path than advanced and intermediate climbers. In the more difficult boulder, both elite and advanced climbers showed longer preview durations, performed more scans, and applied less often a superficial scan path than in the easier boulder. CONCLUSION: Findings revealed that cognitive-behavioural processes during route previewing are associated with climbing expertise and boulder difficulty. Superior domain-specific cognitive proficiency seems to account for the expertise-processing-paradigm in boulder previewing, contributing to faster and more conscious acquisition of perceptual cues, more efficient visual search strategies, and better identification of representative patterns among experts.

A retrospective analysis of mission reports in the national Swedish Police Registry on mountain rescue 2018-2022: here be snowmobiles.

BACKGROUND: Increasing mountain activity and decreasing participant preparedness, as well as climate change, suggest needs to tailor mountain rescue. In Sweden, previous medical research of these services are lacking. The aim of the study is to describe Swedish mountain rescue missions as a basis for future studies, public education, resource allocation, and rescuer training. METHODS: Retrospective analysis of all mission reports in the national Swedish Police Registry on Mountain Rescue 2018-2022 (n = 1543). Outcome measures were frequencies and characteristics of missions, casualties, fatalities, traumatic injuries, medical conditions, and incident mechanisms. RESULTS: Jämtland county had the highest proportion of missions (38%), followed by Norrbotten county (36%). 2% of missions involved ≥ 4 casualties, and 44% involved ≥ 4 mountain rescuers. Helicopter use was recorded in 59% of missions. Non-Swedish citizens were rescued in 12% of missions. 37% of casualties were females. 14% of casualties were ≥ 66 or ≤ 12 years of age. Of a total 39 fatalities, cardiac event (n = 14) was the most frequent cause of death, followed by trauma (n = 10) and drowning (n = 8). There was one avalanche fatality. 8 fatalities were related to snowmobiling, and of the total 1543 missions, 309 (20%) were addressing snowmobiling incidents. Of non-fatal casualties, 431 involved a medical condition, of which 90 (21%) suffered hypothermia and 73 (17%) cardiovascular illness. CONCLUSIONS: These baseline data suggest snowmobiling, cardiac events, drownings, multi-casualty incidents, and backcountry internal medicine merit future study and intervention.

Exome sequencing in extreme altitude mountaineers identifies pathogenic variants in RTEL1 and COL6A1 previously associated with respiratory failure.

Adaptation of humans to challenging environmental conditions, such as extreme temperature, malnutrition, or hypoxia, is an interesting phenomenon for both basic and applied research. Identification of the genetic factors contributing to human adaptation to these conditions enhances our understanding of the underlying molecular and physiological mechanisms. In our study, we analyzed the exomes of 22 high altitude mountaineers to uncover genetic variants contributing to hypoxic adaptation. To our surprise, we identified two putative loss-of-function variants, rs1385101139 in RTEL1 and rs1002726737 in COL6A1 in two extremely high altitude (personal record of more than 8500 m) professional climbers. Both variants can be interpreted as pathogenic according to medical geneticists' guidelines, and are linked to inherited conditions involving respiratory failure (late-onset pulmonary fibrosis and severe Ullrich muscular dystrophy for rs1385101139 and rs1002726737, respectively). Our results suggest that a loss of gene function may act as an important factor of human adaptation, which is corroborated by previous reports in other human subjects.

Risk of Cardiac Arrhythmias Among Climbers on Mount Everest.

Importance: Arterial hypoxemia, electrolyte imbalances, and periodic breathing increase the vulnerability to cardiac arrhythmia at altitude. Objective: To explore the incidence of tachyarrhythmias and bradyarrhythmias in healthy individuals at high altitudes. Design, Setting, and Participants: This prospective cohort study involved healthy individuals at altitude (8849 m) on Mount Everest, Nepal. Recruitment occurred from January 25 to May 9, 2023, and data analysis took place from June to July 2023. Exposure: All study participants underwent 12-lead electrocardiogram, transthoracic echocardiography, and exercise stress testing before and ambulatory rhythm recording both before and during the expedition. Main Outcome: The incidence of a composite of supraventricular (>30 seconds) and ventricular (>3 beats) tachyarrhythmia and bradyarrhythmia (sinoatrial arrest, second- or third-degree atrioventricular block). Results: Of the 41 individuals recruited, 100% were male, and the mean (SD) age was 33.6 (8.9) years. On baseline investigations, there were no signs of exertional ischemia, wall motion abnormality, or cardiac arrhythmia in any of the participants. Among 34 individuals reaching basecamp at 5300 m, 32 participants climbed to 7900 m or higher, and 14 reached the summit of Mount Everest. A total of 45 primary end point-relevant events were recorded in 13 individuals (38.2%). Forty-three bradyarrhythmic events were documented in 13 individuals (38.2%) and 2 ventricular tachycardias in 2 individuals (5.9%). Nine arrhythmias (20%) in 5 participants occurred when climbers were using supplemental bottled oxygen, whereas 36 events (80%) in 11 participants occurred at lower altitudes when no supplemental bottled oxygen was used. The proportion of individuals with arrhythmia remained stable across levels of increasing altitude, while event rates per 24 hours numerically increased between 5300 m (0.16 per 24 hours) and 7300 m (0.37 per 24 hours) before decreasing again at higher altitudes, where supplemental oxygen was used. None of the study participants reported dizziness or syncope. Conclusion and Relevance: In this study, more than 1 in 3 healthy individuals experienced cardiac arrhythmia during the climb of Mount Everest, thereby confirming the association between exposure to high altitude and incidence of cardiac arrhythmia. Future studies should explore the potential implications of these rhythm disturbances.

Climbing anxiety scale (CAS-20): Preliminary development and validation.

Anxiety has been the primary focus of emotion research in sport psychology. Most of the existing anxiety measures focus on the competition related anxiety. Little is known about the way in which anxiety affects athletic outcomes in extreme sports. We contribute to the literature on anxiety in extreme sports by: (1) developing and providing a preliminary validation for a novel, theoretically anchored sport climbing inventory, Climbing Anxiety Scale (CAS-20), among an international sample of rock-climbers (N = 153); and (2) providing preliminary evidence on its factorial and criterion-related validity. Our investigation includes two phases. The first phase (6 clinical and sport psychology experts) included the development and expert review of a climbing specific anxiety scale. The second phase (N = 153) offers preliminary evidence pertaining to the measure's reliability, factorial, convergent and criterion related validity. Factorial validity was investigated by deploying a series of confirmatory factorial analyses. Convergent and discriminatory validity were examined by comparing the scale's associations with a general anxiety measure, a sport anxiety measure, as well as climbing self-efficacy. Criterion-related validity was estimated by examining its relationship with rock-climbing performance. We contribute to the general domain of sport and athletic research by developing a sport-specific anxiety measure, investigating whether and how anxiety comes into play in rock-climbing, a high-risk sport. This scale can be used for assessing anxiety in climbing and monitoring the impact of an interventions designed to reduce these symptoms.

Proximal phalanx flexor tendon tenodesis after severe frostbite in a rock climber.

A 32 year-old climber sustained a grade IV frostbite injury to the right hand which required amputation at the neck of the proximal phalanges of all the long fingers. To increase range of motion and strength in the remaining metacarpophalangeal joints, tenodesis of the flexor digitalis superficialis and profundus tendons onto the proximal phalanges was performed. Several revisions for removal of bony spurs, dorsal skin advancement flaps and web space deepening were necessary. After 2 years, the patient achieved 10-0-100° metacarpophalangeal joint range of motion in extension-flexion and could do full body-weight pull-ups on 1 cm deep holds, lift 50 kg on a 2 cm deep hold (normal contralateral side, 40 kg), climb up to F7a routes and use a mechanical 4-finger functional prosthesis.

Mapping Risk Judgment and Risk Taking in Mountain Hiking: An Information Integration Approach.

Risk analysis is essential for promoting hiking-based tourism. Our objective in the present study was to map 395 mountain hikers' positions on risk judgment and risk taking, according to how they integrated three antecedent factors of confidence (environment, team, and self). For integrating information, people can develop an additive rule whereby they apply the same weight to all information or use interaction rules (i.e., conjunctive or disjunctive), to give different weights to information. In the questionnaire our participants completed, there were eight scenarios that combined the three confidence antecedent factors as information cues. We applied cluster analysis, repeated-measures analyses of variance, chi-square tests, and bivariate correlation analyses to the questionnaire results to identify three participant risk positions. In the first risk position (cluster 1), participants used a disjunctive integration rule for both risk judgment and risk taking. In the second risk position (Clusters 2 and 4), they used an additive integration rule for risk judgment while they used a disjunctive integration rule for risk taking. In the third risk position (cluster 3), they used an additive integration rule for both risk judgment and risk taking. In each risk position, confidence in the three antecedent factors (environment, team, and self) negatively affected risk judgment and positively affected risk taking. We found the compositions of the clusters to be related to the participants' sex, and we discuss various advantages of applying information integration for mountain hiking practitioners and promoters.

Women at Altitude: Menstrual-Cycle Phase, Menopause, and Exogenous Progesterone Are Not Associated with Acute Mountain Sickness.

Gardner, Laurel, Linda E. Keyes, Caleb Phillips, Elan Small, Tejaswi Adhikari, Nathan Barott, Ken Zafren, Rony Maharjan, and James Marvel. Women at altitude: Menstrual-cycle phase, menopause, and exogenous progesterone are not associated with acute mountain sickness. High Alt Med Biol. 00:000-000, 2024. Background: Elevated progesterone levels in women may protect against acute mountain sickness (AMS). The impact of hormonal contraception (HC) on AMS is unknown. We examined the effect of natural and exogenous progesterone on the occurrence of AMS. Methods: We conducted a prospective observational convenience study of female trekkers in Lobuche (4,940 m) and Manang (3,519 m). We collected data on last menstrual period, use of exogenous hormones, and development of AMS. Results: There were 1,161 trekkers who met inclusion criteria, of whom 307 (26%) had AMS. There was no significant difference in occurrence of AMS between women in the follicular (28%) and the luteal (25%) phases of menstruation (p = 0.48). The proportion of premenopausal (25%) versus postmenopausal women (30%) with AMS did not differ (p = 0.33). The use of HC did not influence the occurrence of AMS (HC 23% vs. no HC 26%, p = 0.47), nor did hormonal replacement therapy (HRT) (HRT 11% vs. no HRT 31%, p = 0.13). Conclusion: We found no relationship between menstrual-cycle phase, menopausal status, or use of exogenous progesterone and the occurrence of AMS in trekkers and conclude that hormonal status is not a risk factor for AMS. Furthermore, women should not be excluded from future AMS studies based on hormonal status.

Managing Patients With Sympathetic Crashing Acute Pulmonary Edema (SCAPE) Using the SCAPE Treatment Protocol: A Case Series.

Pulmonary edema refers to the accumulation of excessive fluid in the alveolar walls and alveolar spaces of the lungs. It is a life-threatening condition with a high mortality rate and requires immediate assessment and management. Use of intravenous nitroglycerin has been advocated for such cases. The authors present a case series of 3 patients who presented to the emergency department with sympathetic crashing acute pulmonary edema (SCAPE) and were managed with high-dose intravenous nitroglycerin and bilevel positive airway pressure support using the SCAPE treatment protocol, leading to early correction of blood pressure, avoidance of endotracheal intubation, and no episodes of hypotension or rebound hypertension. The authors recommend emergency physicians utilize the SCAPE treatment protocol while managing patients with SCAPE.

Delaying Suspension Syndrome Onset in Aerially Suspended Victims Through Leg Raising.

INTRODUCTION: Suspension syndrome (SS) develops when venous blood pools in extremities of passively suspended individuals, resulting in presyncopal symptoms and potential unconsciousness or death independent of additional injuries. We investigated use of leg raising to delay onset of SS, as it can decrease venous pooling and increase cardiac return and systemic perfusion. METHODS: Participants were suspended in rock climbing harnesses at an indoor climbing wall in a legs-dangling control position or a legs-raised interventional position to compare physiological outcomes between groups. Participants were suspended for a maximum of 45 min. Onset of 2 or more symptoms of SS, such as vertigo, lightheadedness, or nausea, halted suspension immediately. We recorded each participant's heart rate, blood pressure, oxygen saturation, lower leg oxygen saturation, pain rating, and presyncope scores presuspension, midsuspension, and postsuspension, as well as total time suspended. RESULTS: There were 24 participants. There was a significant difference in total time suspended between groups (43.05±6.7 min vs 33.35±9.02 min, p=0.007). There was a significant difference in heart rate between groups overall (p=0.012), and between groups, specifically at the midsuspension time interval (80±11 bpm vs 100±17 bpm, p=0.003). Pain rating was significantly different between groups (p=0.05). Differences in blood pressure, oxygen saturation, lower leg oxygen saturation, and presyncope scores were not significant. CONCLUSION: Leg raising lengthened the time individuals tolerated passive suspension and delayed symptom onset.

The historical adventures of Takeshi Kawase: the mountaineer who explored the "no man's land" with love for art, nature, and humankind.

The anterior petrosal approach, or Kawase's approach, is a commonly used technique in skull base surgery to access the brainstem in the posterior fossa from the middle fossa, and has the advantages of minimizing brain retraction and preserving hearing. It was first successfully performed by the legendary Japanese neurosurgeon, Takeshi Kawase, for the clipping of a basilar artery aneurysm in 1981. To date, no historical article has shed light on Kawase's intriguing personal history. In this historical vignette, the authors depict Kawase's unique background, talent, passion, as well as struggles that ultimately shaped his career. By sharing Kawase's personal story from the hospital where he first successfully performed his original approach, the authors hope to pass on to future generations Kawase's spirit and philosophy that have impacted the global neurosurgical community.

Influence of Smoking and Alcohol Habits on Symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness on Mount Fuji: A Questionnaire Survey-Based Pilot Study.

Horiuchi, Masahiro, Satomi Mitsui, and Tadashi Uno. Influence of smoking and alcohol habits on symptoms of acute mountain sickness on Mount Fuji: a questionnaire survey-based pilot study. High Alt Med Biol 00:000-000, 2024. Background: Acute cigarette smoking or alcohol intake would cause opposing vasculature effects that may influence acute mountain sickness (AMS). The present study aimed to investigate the effects of smoking and alcohol consumption behaviors, and acute smoking and consuming alcohol during ascent on AMS on Mount Fuji. Methods: This questionnaire survey study included 887 participants who climbed Mount Fuji and obtained information regarding sex, age, and smoking and alcohol habits, including behavior during ascent. Results: AMS prevalence was 45% for all participants. A univariate analysis revealed that younger participants (20-29 years) were associated with increased AMS prevalence (effect size [ES] = 0.102, p = 0.057) and severity (ES = 0.18, p = 0.01). A prediction model using multiple logistic regression indicated that several factors influenced AMS risk: younger age (p = 0.001), daily smoking habits (p = 0.021), no smoking (p = 0.033), or alcohol consumption during ascent (p = 0.096). Alcohol consumption during ascent had no effect on the increased AMS risk in younger participants (20-29 years), while alcohol consumption during ascent increased AMS risk for middle-age participants (50-59 years). Conclusion: Younger individuals are more likely to experience AMS. Smoking habits are associated with an increased AMS risk. It may be recommended that middle-aged climbers should ascend without consuming alcohol.