Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review.

Climbing as a competition sport has become increasingly popular in recent years, particularly the sub-discipline of bouldering. The sport will debut in the Tokyo Summer Olympic Games. National and international competitions have three disciplines: lead (climbing with rope protection), bouldering (climbing at lower heights with mattress floor protection) and speed (maximum speed climbing on a standardised route in 1-on-1 mode). There is also a 'combined mode' of all three disciplines (combined) which forms the Olympic competition format; all competition formats are held on artificial walls. Existing literature describes a predominantly low injury frequency and severity in elite climbing. In comparison to climbing on real rock, artificial climbing walls have recently been associated with higher injury rates. Finger injuries such as tenosynovitis, pulley lesions and growth plate injuries are the most common injuries. As finger injuries are sport-specific, medical supervision of climbing athletes requires specific medical knowledge for diagnosis and treatment. There is so far little evidence on effective injury prevention measures in top athletes, and antidoping measures, in general, requiring further work in this field. An improved data situation regarding high-performance climbing athletes is crucial to ensure that the sport continues to be largely safe and injury-free and to prevent doping cases as extensively as possible.

Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers.

Despite climbing's popularity and an increasing number of female participants, there are limited anthropometric and performance data for this population. This study compares the characteristics of 55 experienced female climbers, divided into three categories (lower [ADV-L] and higher advanced [ADV-H] and elite [ELT]) based on self-reported ability. Data on climbing experience, body dimensions, body composition, flexibility, lower and upper-body power and finger strength were assessed. ELT climbers differed significantly from the ADV groups in age (Mean Difference [MD] = 8.8-9.8 yrs; despite smaller differences in years climbing MD = 1.6-2.4 yrs), greater climbing and hours training per week (MD = 3.0-3.7 h & MD = 0.9-1.6 h, respectively), and greater upper-body power (MD = 12.9-16.6 cm) and finger strength (MD = 51.6-65.4 N). Linear regression analysis showed finger strength and upper body power to be associated with ability, particularly when adjusting for descriptive and anthropometric variables (finger strength R2 = 53% and 45%; upper-body power R2 = 60% and 39% for boulder and sport, respectively). The findings support the importance of finger strength and upper-body power; changes in female anthropometric data over the last decade provide insight into the changing nature of the sport.

Rock climbing activity and physical habitat attributes impact avian community diversity in cliff environments.

As the sport of outdoor rock climbing rapidly grows, there is increasing pressure to understand how it can affect communities of organisms in cliff habitats. To that end, we surveyed 32 cliff sites in Boulder, Colorado, USA, and assessed the relative roles of human recreation and natural habitat features as drivers of bird diversity and activity. We detected only native avian species during our observations. Whereas avian abundance was not affected by climbing, avian species diversity and community conservation value were higher at low-use climbing formations. Models indicated that climber presence and cliff aspect were important predictors of both avian diversity and avian cliff use within our study area, while long-term climbing use frequency has a smaller, but still negative association with conservation value and cliff use by birds in the area. In contrast, the diversity of species on the cliff itself was not affected by any of our measured factors. To assess additional community dynamics, we surveyed vegetation and arthropods at ten site pairs. Climbing negatively affected lichen communities, but did not significantly affect other vegetation metrics or arthropods. We found no correlations between avian diversity and diversity of either vegetation or arthropods. Avian cliff use rate was positively correlated with arthropod biomass. We conclude that while rock climbing is associated with lower community diversity at cliffs, some common cliff-dwelling birds, arthropods and plants appear to be tolerant of climbing activity. An abiotic factor, cliff aspect strongly affected patterns of both avian diversity and cliff use, suggesting that the negative effects of rock climbing may be mitigated by informed management of cliff habitat that considers multiple site features.

Injury trends in rock climbers: evaluation of a case series of 911 injuries between 2009 and 2012.

OBJECTIVE: Rock climbing is a widely performed sport. This prospective single-institution study evaluated the demographics of climbing-related injuries to improve our comprehension of current injury characteristics. METHODS: During a 4-year period, 836 patients with a total of 911 independent climbing injuries were prospectively evaluated using a standard questionnaire and examination protocol. RESULTS: Of all injuries, 833 were on the upper extremities, 58 on the lower. Seventeen injuries were Union International des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) grade 1 injuries, 881 were grade 2, and 13 were grade 3. No higher UIAA graded injuries occurred. Overall, 380 were acute injuries (359 were seen in clinic, 21 were seen through the emergency department), and 531 were overstrain injuries (all seen in clinic). Finger injuries accounted for 52% of all injuries, the shoulder being the second most frequent location. Pulley injuries were the most frequent finger injuries. Of 20 injured young climbers under the age of 15 years, 14 had an epiphyseal fracture (all epiphyseal fractures: mean age 14 years, range 12 to 15 years). Male climbers were significantly older (P < .05), had more climbing years (P < .05), and were climbing at a higher climbing level (P < .01). Older, more experienced climbers had significantly more overstrain injuries than acute injuries (P < .05). CONCLUSIONS: When comparing this study with our previous study from 1998 to 2001, there are some notable differences. Although pulley injuries are still the most common climbing injury, there are now more A4 pulley injuries than A2. Shoulder injuries are becoming more common, as are epiphyseal fractures among young climbers. It is important to understand current patterns of climbing injuries so that health providers can target interventions appropriately.

Identifying the lowest effective dose of acetazolamide for the prophylaxis of acute mountain sickness: systematic review and meta-analysis.

OBJECTIVES: To assess the efficacy of three different daily doses of acetazolamide in the prevention of acute mountain sickness and to determine the lowest effective dose. DESIGN: Systematic review and meta-analysis. DATA SOURCES: Medline and Embase along with a hand search of selected bibliographies. No language restrictions were applied. STUDY SELECTION: Randomised controlled trials assessing the use of acetazolamide at 250 mg, 500 mg, or 750 mg daily versus placebo in adults as a drug intervention for the prophylaxis of acute mountain sickness. Included studies were required to state the administered dose of acetazolamide and to randomise participants before ascent to either acetazolamide or placebo. Two reviewers independently carried out the selection process. DATA EXTRACTION: Two reviewers extracted data concerning study methods, pharmacological intervention with acetazolamide, method of assessment of acute mountain sickness, and event rates in both control and intervention groups, which were verified and analysed by the review team collaboratively. DATA SYNTHESIS: 11 studies (with 12 interventions arms) were included in the review. Acetazolamide at doses of 250 mg, 500 mg, and 750 mg were all effective in preventing acute mountain sickness above 3000 m, with a combined odds ratio of 0.36 (95% confidence interval 0.28 to 0.46). At a dose of 250 mg daily the number needed to treat for acetazolamide to prevent acute mountain sickness was 6 (95% confidence interval 5 to 11). Heterogeneity ranged from I(2)=0% (500 mg subgroup) to I(2)=44% (750 mg subgroup). CONCLUSIONS: Acetazolamide in doses of 250 mg, 500 mg, and 750 mg daily are all more effective than placebo for preventing acute mountain sickness. Acetazolamide 250 mg daily is the lowest effective dose to prevent acute mountain sickness for which evidence is available.

[Therapeutic climbing--barely explored but widely used]. / Therapeutisches Klettern--kaum erforscht und dennoch zunehmend eingesetzt.

BACKGROUND: Therapeutic climbing had been used successfully as an intervention in orthopedic-traumatologic, neurologic, psychomotoric and congenital or chronic diseases. The aim of this abstract is to give an overview of the existing literature on this new form of therapy. This could also aid in assessing the methodology and work out future research directions. MATERIAL AND METHODS: National and international databases within the medical field (Evidence Based Medicine Reviews, PubMed …) have been searched for German and English articles that dealt with climbing in a therapeutic context. RESULTS: Only a limited amount of scientific investigations regarding the effects of therapeutic climbing were found. Evidence for the effectiveness of this form of climbing was only found in the field of orthopedics. Other published results were field reports or individual case studies which did not make any reliable statements/conclusions. CONCLUSION: Based on the current review, therapeutic climbing cannot be wholly recommended as an interventional method. However, this should not be interpreted as a refusal to use therapeutic climbing as an intervention. The use of systematic analysis in studying the general effects of climbing movements as well as comparisons to classical interventional methods is necessary. Further approaches to this research study will be given.

El ascenso a una altura moderada mejora la capacidad de producción de fuerza / Ascent to moderate altitude improves force production

El objeto de este trabajo es analizar el efecto del ascenso súbito a una altura moderada sobre la mecánica muscular en distintos niveles de sobrecarga. Para ello, 5 varones deportistas, participaron en este estudio. Utilizando el ejercicio de sentadilla a 900 con barra libre, los participantes ejecutaron una curva de fuerza-velocidad, a partir de la cual se determinó la potencia máxima con un dinamómetro electrónico. En una jornada diferente se realizó una sesión de entrenamiento de fuerza con el método de 10x10, con elmismoejercicio y con la carga asociada a la potencia máxima.Ambos test se ejecutaron en condiciones de normoxia(N) (690m) y de hipoxia (H) súbita moderada(232Om).La potencia desarrollada, la velocidad de desplazamientode la sobrecarga y la percepción de esfuerzo diferenciadafueron registradas. La potencia máxima alcanzaday la carga a la que se obtuvo fueron significativamentesuperiores en H que en N(9l6,64+/-146,14 vs 823,85+/-118,38W y 110,00+/-12,24104,00+/-11,40Kg respectivamente)(p<0,05). La sesión de fuerza no mostró un efecto significativo de la hipoxia en las variables analizadas, a excepción de la percepción de esfuerzo local, la cual se mostró significativamente reducida en altitud (12,98+/-0,44 vs 11,54+/-0,46 para N e H respectivamente)(p<0,05). Por tanto, sobre la base de los resultados obtenidos y, siendo conscientes de las limitaciones ocasionadas por el tamaño de la muestra empleada, podemos concluir que la exposición a una altura moderada parece mejorar la potencia máxima y la carga a la que se localizaron respecto a la generada a nivel del mar. Tanto la hipoxia, como los cambios en la densidad del aire generados con el ascenso, podrían favorecer el reclutamiento selectivo de fibras de perfil mono-funcional anaeróbico en acciones muscularesde corta duración, justificando éste resultado. La fatigagenerada por la acumulación de repeticiones en lasesión podría enmascarar el efecto "facilitador" de la altura en la aplicación de fuerza a gran velocidad, pudiendo ser necesario en tales casos, acortar el volumen de las series

The aim of this study is to analyze the effect of acute ascent to moderate altitude on muscular mechanisms using different levels of resistance. Five healthy athletes participated in this study. Using back squat 90º flexion with free weights, participants executed a force-velocity curve to determine maximum power. On a different day a strength workout (10xl0) was performed with the same exercise using a maximum power load. Both tests were carried out in normoxia (690m) as well as in hypoxia (2320m). Power, speed and the diferenciated Ratings of Perceived Exertion (RPE) were recorded. Maximum power and the maximum power load, were significantly higher in hypoxia than innormoxia (916.64+/-146.14 vs 823.85+/-118.38 W and 110.00+/-12.24 vs 104.00+/-11.40 Kg respectively) (p<0.05).The variables analyzed in the strength workout didn't show any significant difference between normoxia and hypoxia, with the exception of fue local RPE which was reduced in hypoxic conditions (12.98+/-0.44 vs 11.54+/-0.46)( p<0.05). Therefore, based on fuese results, and taking into consideration the limits of the sample size, we can conclude that exposure to moderate alititude seems to improve maximum power and the maximum power load with respect to sea level. Hypoxia, as well as the changes in air density with ascent to a higher altitude, favour the selective recruitment of anaerobic morfo-functional fibers in short muscular action, justifying this result. The fatigue generated after repetitions in the workout could mask the "facilitator" effect of altitude in the application of strength in high speed movements. In fuese cases it could be necessary to reduce the number of sets

Características antropométricas e desempenho motor de escaladores esportivos brasileiros de elite e intermediários que praticam predominantemente a modalidade indoor / Anthropometric characteristics and motor perfomance of Brazilian indoor rock climbers at the advanced and intermediate levels

[1]Bertuzzi, R. C. M., Gagliardi,J. F.L., Franchini, E., Kiss, M. A. P. D. M. Características antropométricas e desempenho motor de escaladores esportivos brasileiros de elite e intermediários que praticam predominantemente a modalidade indoor, Rev. Bras. Ciên. e Mov. 9 (1): 07-12, 2001. Este estudo teve por objetivos comparar as características antropométricas e a resistência muscular localizada (RML), apresentadas pelos escaladores esportivos de elite (EEB) e intermediários (EI) que praticam predominantemente a modalidade indoor. O grupo EEB apresentou valores inferiores (p< 0,05) de massa corporal (EEB - 62,7 ñ 3,4 Kg; EEI -67,3 ñ 4,7 Kg), somatória de 9 dobras cutâneas (EEB -56,6 ñ 12,3mm; EI - 77,8 ñ 29,8 mm) e percentual de gordura corporal (EEB -6,7 ñ 2,3 por cento; EI - 10,5 ñ 4,8 por cento). O maior tempo de experiência na escalada (p < 0,05) do grupo EEB (EEB - 6,8 ñ 3,1 anos; EI 3,0 ñ 1,9 anos) parece ser um fator contribuinte para as diferenças de desempenho na habilidade de escalada entre os grupos (EEB - 3,1 ñ0,3; EI - 1,5 ñ 4,4; p < 0,05). Mesmo havendo grande solicitaçäo dos membros superiores, na prática da escalada, os grupos näo apresentaram diferenças estatísticas nos testes de abdominal em 1minuto (41 repetiçöes para ambos os grupos) e de flexäo de braço (EI = 33 repetiçöes; EEB = 23 repetiçöes; p > 0,05). A inexistência de diferença entre os grupos, quanto a RML pode ser atribuída à ausência de especificidade desses testes.