Saponins and microbial biosurfactants: Potential raw materials for the formulation of cosmetics.

The cosmetic industry is currently one of the fasting growing sections of the economy in many countries. The recent tendency toward the use of cosmetics of a natural origin has driven the industry to seek alternatives to synthetic components in the formulation of products. Biosurfactants are natural compounds that have considerable potential for application in the formulation of safe, effective cosmetics as a replacement for commonly used chemical tensioactive agents. The present review provides essential information on the physicochemical and biological properties of saponins and microbial biosurfactants employed in cosmetic products, with a focus on the use of these natural compounds in shampoos, addressing the current state of research and patents involving biosurfactants for this purpose. The challenges and prospects of this cosmetic application are also discussed. © 2018 American Institute of Chemical Engineers Biotechnol. Prog., 34:1482-1493, 2018.