Novel Cosmetic Ingredient CS-AA Polyion Complex and Skin Moisturizing Effect.
Skin Res Technol
; 30(9): e70073, 2024 Sep.
Article
em En
| MEDLINE
| ID: mdl-39324311
ABSTRACT
PURPOSE:
The study explored the enhanced skin moisturizing capabilities and moisture retention effects achieved by forming a polyion complex using sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG), specifically chondroitin sulfate (CS), and amino acids (AA) such as glutamine (Q) and arginine (R). The overall hydration effect of this CS-AA complex was examined.METHODS:
After analyzing the CS-AA polyion complex structure using spectroscopic methods, the ex vivo moisture retention ability was assessed under dry conditions using porcine skin samples. Additionally, the efficacy of the CS-AA polyion complex in reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improving skin hydration was evaluated on human subjects using a digital evaporimeter and a corneometer, respectively.RESULTS:
Validating a systematic reduction in particle size, the following order was observed CS > CS/AA simple mixture > CS-AA complex based on dynamic light scattering (DLS) and transmission electron microscopy (TEM) analysis. Furthermore, observations revealed that the CS-AA complex exhibits negligible surface charge. Additionally, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) analysis demonstrated a distinct peak shift in the complex, confirming the successful formation of the CS-AA complex. Subsequently, the water-holding effect through porcine skin was assessed, revealing a notable improvement in moisture retention (weight loss) for the CS-Q complex 40.6% (1 h), 20.5% (2 h), and 18.7% (4 h) compared to glycerin. Similarly, the CS-R complex demonstrated enhancements of 50.2% (1 h), 37.5% (2 h), and 33% (4 h) compared to glycerin. Furthermore, TEWL improvement efficacy on human skin demonstrated approximately 25% improvement for both the CS-Q complex and CS-R complex, surpassing the modest 12.5% and 18% improvements witnessed with water and glycerin applications, respectively. Finally, employing a corneometer, hydration changes in the skin were monitored over 4 weeks. Although CS alone exhibited nominal alterations, the CS-Q complex and CS-R complex showed a significant increase in moisture levels after 4 weeks of application.CONCLUSION:
In this study, polyion complexes were successfully formed between CS, a sulfated GAG, and AA. Comparisons with glycerin, a well-known moisturizing agent, confirmed that the CS-AA complex exhibits superior moisturizing effects in various aspects. These findings suggest that the CS-AA complex is a more effective ingredient than CS or AA alone in terms of efficacy.Palavras-chave
Texto completo:
1
Coleções:
01-internacional
Base de dados:
MEDLINE
Assunto principal:
Perda Insensível de Água
/
Sulfatos de Condroitina
/
Cosméticos
Limite:
Adult
/
Animals
/
Female
/
Humans
Idioma:
En
Revista:
Skin Res Technol
Assunto da revista:
DERMATOLOGIA
Ano de publicação:
2024
Tipo de documento:
Article
País de publicação:
Reino Unido