Análise da composição do óleo essencial de Croton tricolor como um modelo na criação de acordes em fragrâncias na indústria da perfumaria / Analysis of the Croton tricolor essential oil composition as a model in the creation of fragrance accords for the perfumery industry

O uso de óleos essenciais na indústria de fragrância tem crescido a cada ano. A indústria de cosméticos, em geral, tem buscado este tipo de ingrediente com o objetivo de agregar atributos únicos e melhores aos seus produtos e assim entregar, ao consumidor final, diferenciais que poderão valorizar suas formulações, além de simplesmente perfumar. O benefício de usar óleos naturais ou acordes de seus principais componentes em formulações de fragrâncias é que estes se tornam composições mais ricas, e em muitos casos, capazes de proporcionar perfumação prolongada ao produto, quando comparados àqueles sintetizados. A presença de compostos variados nos óleos, como terpenos e resinas, ajudam a promover singularidades à fragrância e até mesmo servem como inspiração às criações de produtos com descrições olfativas de produtos naturais. Croton tricolor (Euphorbiaceae), segundo avaliação inicial de um perfumista, apresentou excelentes características olfativas, o que facilitou seu uso nos estudos. A análise do óleo essencial de C. tricolor por cromatografia à gás com detector de ionização de chamas (CG/DIC) e cromatografia à gás acoplada à espectrometria de massas (CG/EM) permitiu quantificar e identificar seus principais marcadores, bem como utilizar estas informações para construção de acorde olfativo, reproduzindo o odor do produto natural. O óleo essencial de C. tricolor apresentou como principais componentes o biciclogermacreno (15,4%), espatulenol (10,5%) e o alfa-pineno (6,8%). A partir destes dados foi construído um acorde aromático que reproduziu o odor original, contendo alfa-pineno (7%), álcool fenetílico (5%), óleo de cedro (5%), óleo de laranja (0,5%), limoneno (1%), eucaliptol (0,5%) e nerolidol (0,3%). Os compostos majoritários, biciclogermacreno e espatulenol, não foram adicionados por não serem disponíveis comercialmente, por isso, usaram-se outras matérias-primas semelhantes em perfil olfativo e ofertadas no mercado, como foi o caso do uso de álcool fenetílico, óleo de cedro e óleo de laranja na criação do acorde. Os resultados evidenciaram que a criação de acordes é um método economicamente viável para a reprodução de odores naturais que podem ser utilizados em formulações de fragrâncias, além de ajudar a resolver problemas na produção e comercialização de óleos essenciais como, sazonalidade e reprodutibilidade

The use of essential oils in the fragrance industry has grown every year. The cosmetics industry has generally sought this type of ingredient, with the aim of providing its products with differentiated benefits (unique and better attributes), and thus delivering to the final consumer a differential that can enhance their formulations, besides simply perfuming their products (theirs). The benefit of using natural oils or accords of their major components in fragrance formulations makes them richer, and in many cases capable of providing prolonged perfuming to the final product when compared to synthesized products. The presence of varied compounds in the oils, such as terpenes or (and) resins, helps to promote differentiated fragrance characteristics (singularities/peculiarities to the fragrance), or (and) even to serve as inspiration for product creations with olfactory descriptions of natural products. Croton tricolor (Euphorbiaceae), accordingly to an initial evaluation of a perfumer, presented excellent olfactory characteristics, which facilitated its use in the studies. The analysis of the C. tricolor essential oil by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector (GC/FID) and gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC/MS) allowed to quantify and identify their main markers, as well as to use this information to construct an olfactory accord that reproduces the odor of natural products. The C. tricolor essential oil had as main components bicyclogermacrene (15.4%), spathulenol (10.5%) and alpha pinene (6.8%). From these data, an aromatic accord was created reproducing the original odor containing alpha pinene (7%), phenethyl alcohol (5%), cedar oil (5%), orange oil (0.5%), limonene (1%), eucalyptol (0.5%) and nerolidol (0.3%). Some of the major compounds, bicyclogermacrene and spatulenol, could not be added because they were not commercially available. In these cases (therefore), other products (raw materials) with similar olfactory characteristics (olfactory profile) and commercially viable (offered on the market) were used, such as the use of phenethyl alcohol, cedar oil and orange oil in the accord creation. The results showed that accord creation is an economically viable method for the reproduction of natural odors that can be used in fragrance formulations and may help to solve problems that exist in the production and commercialization of essential oils such as production seasonality and reproducibility

Genetic variability in G2 and F2 region between biological clones of human respiratory syncytial virus with or without host immune selection pressure

Human respiratory syncytial virus (HRSV) is an important respiratory pathogens among children between zero-five years old. Host immunity and viral genetic variability are important factors that can make vaccine production difficult. In this work, differences between biological clones of HRSV were detected in clinical samples in the absence and presence of serum collected from children in the convalescent phase of the illness and from their biological mothers. Viral clones were selected by plaque assay in the absence and presence of serum and nucleotide sequences of the G2 and F2 genes of HRSV biological clones were compared. One non-synonymous mutation was found in the F gene (Ile5Asn) in one clone of an HRSV-B sample and one non-synonymous mutation was found in the G gene (Ser291Pro) in four clones of the same HRSV-B sample. Only one of these clones was obtained after treatment with the child's serum. In addition, some synonymous mutations were determined in two clones of the HRSV-A samples. In conclusion, it is possible that minor sequences could be selected by host antibodies contributing to the HRSV evolutionary process, hampering the development of an effective vaccine, since we verify the same codon alteration in absence and presence of human sera in individual clones of BR-85 sample.

O perfume e o alquimista / The fragrance and the alchemist

Os autores apresentam revisäo da literatura sobre perfumes cotizando dados históricos, classificaçäo brasileira dos perfumes, composiçäo, controle de qualidade, estabilidade e aplicaçöes principais.